KTM 625SXC

KTM – LC4 Round the World ADVenturization

just picked up a 2003 KTM 625sxc to continue my RTW (see my signature line for the ride report) 63,000 miles done so far on a Yamaha XT660Z Tenere

what i have been unable to find is any photos of a bike that has added an auxiliary oil tank, i have found lots of threads but no photos…ANYONE??????

so here is a list whats been done by the previous owner …

1. Carb: BST Mikuni stock carburetor with slide drilled out
conservatively. I did not go to 1/8 but something a little less and that
seemed to add some nice snap along with a complete tear down and cleaning.
I also terminated two of the breather lines with K&N air filters rather
than re-breathing spent fumes. Replaced the four bowl screws with hex
screws.
2. Airbox no longer has water overflow, crank case and fuel over flow
(all from main chassis collection point) dumping into it. Apparently that
made the box a little gummy and also the carburetor. Much cleaning
operation now. Have new air filter but not installed as I cleaned the
original one off (not too many miles on it).
3. Changed the oil used new KTM oil filers. I believe I used Yamalube.
4. Lighting installed LED markers all around and updated head lamp for
High and Low beam operation. There is some non-insulated wire coiled up
behind the headlamp. This is ground and its copper so no need to insulate.
5. Checked all four valves. Intakes were off just a little tight.
6. New Continental TC80 tires front and rear less than 150 miles.
7. New lead acid battery.
8. Have auxiliary factory seat that lowers the ride height and and can
be sued to customize as needed.
9. Added duel mirrors and bar mounts and have the original factory
folding mirror. Now you have an aux 10mm mount on the handle bar for GPS
etc.
10. All manuals and have two exhaust gaskets, Motion-pro feeler gauge

and this is a short version of why i bought it…and at the bottom photos of the bike

so the Yamaha Xt660z is alive and well and taking a well deserved siesta, but i wanted a change (actually once this is complete the XT will go up for sale)

as a RTW rider you kind of learn as you go along, with roughly 200,000 touring miles under my belt, 63,000 in last 22 months you come to conclusion that you will read here and everywhere else, i wish i had a lighter bike. There are a lot of places that i have missed, some i have tried and failed to get to simply because of the weight of the bike, all the guys riding the heavy weights wished for mine, i wished for less.

The reason being; i am heading to New Zealand, then Australia, the Far East, the Stans, Russia, Mongolia and eventually Africa…are you seeing where i’m going with this thought pattern, lots more dirt in my future

the XT660 is the heaviest in its class but very durable too, but once you add luggage, and i am a light packer you still have a lot of weight, not GSA standards but restrictive weight.

so i started looking at other options for when i carry on RTW, i posted on a few forums about what i was looking for, light weight, good power, options to add a very large gas tank, reliability and so on to get some other riders input

the short list came back as:

WR250R
XR650L
DRZ400
DR650
KLR650
570 husaberg
610 husqvarna

now other requirements for a RTW rider is shipping and import, what does this have to do with bike choice? Well a lot actually, obviously weight and the ability to reduce the bike to the smallest size possible and Carnet, the fees can get outrageous in some countries for import, so expensive bikes cost a fortune to bring in to some places – calculate your current bike to see what i mean…Carnet price calculator link

The WR250R was top of the list for a while with the DRZ400 in very close second, but finding a good used one with minimal miles was not happening, and a new one by the time i added everything i needed i would be pushing the $10k mark, why not just keep riding the XT i was asking myself

…then out of the blue some guy makes a comment, have you looked at a KTM 625 SXC, it’s everything you are describing, all the other bikes to be made RTW ready would cost more in the long run, the KTM has a good level of components as stock, you can get a 27 liter tank, (you could add a rotopax that will be empty 99.9% of the time to opposite side of the exhaust can, taking it up to 31 liters)

it has minimal electronics, so less to go wrong, no fuel pump, no FI etc, only problem is they only made a few and getting a low mileage one is virtually impossible, and most owner once they buy never sell

so doing web searches on all the above bikes i came across a 625SXC with only 500 miles on it, the owner was having some health issues and never rode it. As its a 2003 the book value is minute (great for the Carnet) and he had done a lot of mods already to save me additional time and money…it weighs about the same as a WR250, double the power, i can get a tank that’s 2.5 gallons bigger than the biggest for the WRR

so i pulled the trigger and now i have gone orange and i’m proud owner of a basically new (to me) LC4… in the coming months it will go thru a transformation to be made RTW ready – any comments/ suggestions/ recommendations/ farkle lists would be gladly accepted

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after my four mile test ride :gdog:rayof:wings:happay:happay:happay:happay
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here we go….

i love it when my UPS girl shows up as well…who cares if she’s got my parts…it is Vegas after all

i was waiting for that comment so here you are and its friggin huge……….Mount Everest just landed in my living room :rofl:rofl

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i don’t have a tape measure handy so what is good for measuring with that is internationally known :deal:lol3

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and its four cans tall

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rad mfg – radmfg wheels and components

i headed north out of the smog of Las Vegas driving north 140 miles

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thru virgin river canyon

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past snow canyon headed to Veyo UT

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and my bike gets unloaded from my truck (front fender is missing, more on that later)

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so a little about Rad Mfg that i learned today, they are under NEW management so anything you have read on here or anywhere else that is more than a year or two old is now totally irrelevant, their professionalism, customer service and quality is beyond reproach. I hadn’t even got out of my truck and the guys were coming outside to meet me and say hello

they run this operation completely from this building

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rims come in from DID, EXCEL and most other rim manufacturers you can think of depending on your wallet or riding style, technique.

once the rims arrive and there are loads of them…

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everything else is done in house, they bring in solid round stock aluminum billets and cut them to length and run them thru the CNC machines to make all the hubs, everything is made to order, and if you requested anodizing that in done in house as well!!!

…and let me tell you having owned a motorcycle business for a number of years, also being a motorcycle builder for 12 years and i also have hands on experience in CNC facilities…this is a top notch operation

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cast stock components don’t compare at all when you can get this precision…

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NIPPLES…everybody likes nipples…well they have them in loads of colors and make them here too

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so i have left my bike with them, as its a two year only model they wanted to confirm their measurements on file were 100% correct and then my wheels will be made to my specifications (you’ll have to wait and see what i chose)

on leaving the manager Gary Holdcraft gave me his card and welcomes any and all inquires about what they can do for you, let him know RTWPaul sent you along please…his phone number is 435-574-2537 and his email Gary@radmfg.com

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parts have been rolling in and trying to find time to get this going, i figured out an easy way to make more time…i quit my job :huh

******let me preempt this whole build thread by saying i am kind of thorough when it comes to building bikes, having done it for about 17 years and built over 150…so this is not a dig at the previous owners, there were two even though this bike has only 500 miles on the clock…

or at KTM, but i am always very wary about Monday and Friday bikes

i would rather make sure things are right while i have all my tools around me and a comfortable place to work rather than on the top of a mountain as a rain storm and 75mph winds are heading my way

and then if something goes wrong and its my fault i can make a good attempt to kick myself in the nuts :eek1****

so boxes of stuff coming in…and still more arriving daily

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don’t ask about the plastics, i’ll get to the reason for them in due course

i ran back up to Veyo Utah to see gary and the boys at RAD Mfg. to collect my rims, i had chosen to go with DID Dirt Star rims in black, orange hubs and nipples and upgraded heavy duty stainless spokes made in house, the nipples are longer than standard (insert wise crack here :lol3) to add additional threads and increase strength

rear cush drive hub uses stock ktm cush drive rubbers, i was given a care package or additional spokes, nipples and rubbers for emergencies (time for another wise crack :lol3)

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i asked for the wheels with tires unmounted…here is where being thorough begins, personally i prefer to tape over the inner nipple area with a few layers of duct tape and then add rims strips on top of that, i didn’t have to as RAD Mfg do this as standard procedure…sweet

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one of the new light weight additions (maybe) is these little dodads from Motion Pro

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they are always innovative in what they make but can these really make breaking a bead that much easier, as i’m not adding a center stand to keep weight down i’minterested for sure…the answer YES :clap…without a doubt easiest bead i have ever broken on a tire using these, and one handed at that..just have to remember to keep the writing facing upwards :deal

****if anyone needs/ wants the stock rims with 500 miles on them let me know, drop me a PM

so time for wheel and tire removal from the old rims

as i do this build i will keep referring to weights, the reason for this is when i come to doing suspension upgrades i will know the altered figure and use it accordingly

last chance look…

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new rear rim getting weighed…12lb 1 oz

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old rear rim…9lb 5oz

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a gain of 2 lb 12oz for the addition of the cush drive and heavy duty spokes…worth it :deal

stock valve caps replaced with ones with integrated core removal tool

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brake rotor replaced using BLUE loctite, steel bolts going into aluminum

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sprocket replaced, through bolts with nuts on the back sides so steel to steel – RED loctitie

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rear axle nut replaced and Blue loctite used as its not a castellated nut with a retaining clip

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chain guard screws cleaned and Blue loctitie added, i always seems to loose these things

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for reference i mark my sprockets, i’ll be carrying a few different ones…

best stock all around gearing for most situations on this model 17-42? currently its 15-45…suggestions

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i took out the two bolts holding the front chain guard, they came out on the motosyberia guys bikes back in 2007 and caused problems on muddy days, again best to check now

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new mounted sexy rear wheel, with a TKC80

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now the front…

the old rim weighing in at 9lb 5 oz

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new rim weighs in at 8 lb 7 oz…saving 14 oz

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…and again blue loctite on rotor bolts going into aluminum

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fork clamp bolts were finger tight, so again some blue loctite

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so here it is mounted

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and the full shot

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so i started to tear into the bike this morning

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having ridden vibrating bikes most of my life i know to check to make sure everything is good and tight…NOPE!

first thing i find is the secondary micro filter mount is loose, and its missing a bolt, the other one is holding by about one thread

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i replace the bolt add some blue loctite and decide to check a few more, the next half a dozen bolts are all loose…so i spent the next hour removing everyone i can find and adding loctite and torquing down to spec.

BTW never found any evidence of any loctite on one single bolt

so once that was done i took off the headlight….holy Füçkïñg §hit

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about a pound of zip ties and extra wire, dozens of unnecessary spliced connections, chaffed wires, open ends, pinches, melted wires, even found a twist strap from a loaf of bread holding a wire in place…starting to wonder if this bike really has 500 miles or the first owner who had it the longest just unplugged the speedo or replaced it with his wiring skills…second owner only had it for a short while so i know its not down to him

guess i’ll be rewiring for a while here, but amazingly everything works :eek1 so it’ll be more of a clean up job

can you imagine if you just bought this and flew it to Mongolia sight unseen and then had an electrical problem in the middle of the Gobi desert…

it would be a case of opening the gas tank throwing a match in there :kboom and taking a camel home…:eek2

 

 

 

when i was a parts unlimited/ drag specialties dealer i got them from there, very easy to use and they come in multiple configurations (Available in 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, and 12 cavity arrangements) click this link deutsch connectors and find someone near you or even your local good quality electrical store is probably a good choice or of course there always ebay – link just make sure you get the correct male and female connectors, and radio shack used to sell the crimping too for less than $10

once you use them you might not use anything else they are so easy

then it all came apart ready for some wiring correction

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and i found out why the mileage was so low (maybe) missing a back up battery in the speedo for the ‘memory’

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seeing that i was a little pissed and i decided to work on the front end and leave the electrics for later

i had spoken with Craig at lexington motorsports most of you might know them as KTM parts housei had already contacted another GPR dealer about a steering dampner and was told they don’t make one for the SXC! i specifically wanted an under bar mount and didn’t like the gold Scotts version overbar…Craig called his inside source at KTM and they came up with a combination of parts so i could make this work…this is what you need if you didn’t know already like me as this is my first orange bike

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so i took the front end apart and found loads of grease so maybe my bike was built on a wednesday but wired on a friday:lol3…but i still regreased the bearing and they were in good shape and so were the races

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the new mount and stabilizer adds 2 lb 10 oz

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add some bars – renthal RC high bend 922’s

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and some dual compound grips – 63002021200, need to find my safety wire and wire them on as well…later :deal

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so slap it all together, the bars that is

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still not sure if i like the KTM speedo set up, really only need speed, distance and a couple of idiot lights…any suggestions, links?

OK, gotta get back to my truck

so around the same time my tank came in my fairing did too.

now this is my opinion here so bear with me…when i originally started in business i was a one man show, the little guy so to speak, and if no one took a chance on me i would have closed my doors real quick, so that being said if i find a small company or inmate in this case who is making a cool,useful, practical and well made product i am all behind him…even if it does cost a few dollars more as ‘he’ is a one man show right now and makes everything himself

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enter stage left Bernard aka inmate ‘aiMhi’ and his website http://www.aimhi-enduro.com/ he has worked hard on this fairing and it shows, it is a quality piece of equipment…so check out his site and if you do get one of these fairings please let him know you saw it in this build thread so he knows where the order came from and who to talk to…believe me as a one man show you can’t be everywhere

now not only does he make a great product he also sells someone elses great product too, Rigid IndustriesLED light, and if you haven’t seen this already take two minutes out and watch…

OK onto get everything mounted, went backwards and forwards and tried a few variations of mounts and none i really liked, even one attaching it to the hand guards, reason being that i didn’t stay with that is when the bike goes down :muutt and it will, the weight of the bike will go on the hand protectors in my case Barkbusters, so my first thought was to mount it to them and then realized i was an idiot and the first time the bike goes down the fairing will be junked

so for a little inspiration i went out, most of you may go to a bike shop or a spend an hour or two on the internet trying to find a solution

not me…i headed out to Viva Las Vegas hotrod show…lots of out of the box thinkers there

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and i found this…stainless steel 2 1/4″ exhaust clamps from summit racing, the upper fork legs on the SXC are approximately that size

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take two of those and two pieces of inner tube

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then even fitted a extra gallon of gas and then took it off again :huh:huh:huh

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OK so once i knew the direction i was really headed in i got to doing it after dicking around for a few days

start with a blank canvas, and as this fairing doesn’t come with mounts it is your choice how you get it mounted

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the inside of the fairing has some mount points, two brackets at the top i ended up not using BTW

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made some lower mounts, the hole in the very front mounts to the bottom mount of the fairing

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once that was in place then i made upper mounts and cross members in a rough mock up

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this is how they mounted, i added coupling nuts to make it obvious where the mounts fitted on the exhaust clamp, structurally very strong and minimal weight

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because of not have access to all my machines and tools (sold most of it already sadly) i was just hand fabbing stuff with simple tools and fitting this by eye most of the time

i ordered some perferated aluminum sheet, a 12×12 piece

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from custom car grills i got some with 1/2″ holes so i could dimple it with these 1/2″dimple dies

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dimples add rigidity and structure to an otherwise very flimsy piece of material

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what are you doing that for i hear you say????? :huh

well even though i have built hundreds of bikes i haven’t really built anything like this but i know from my personal experience what i need and what will work, with the gas tank i chose a tank bag is out of the question or if i did get one then it would be very small and in the wrong location…so yes i have a GPS but i like maps as well, so i need somewhere to put them while i’m riding…so i made this

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all mounted up and put it together with a waterproof 8×12 map pocket, but i still need a final clip system which i’m working on but for now here’s the idea

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and here how it looks from the front, the photo distorts the view a little and makes it look massive but its not, the top sits about chin high which is perfect, simliar to the XT so i know it works and i can see

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so now all this is mounted i can finally get on with rewiring as i know what space i have to work with…thats all for now :freaky

oh yeah, wiring hell, when i got the bike i didn’t check the horn or turn signals for function as i knew i would switch them out anyway…once i was doing a few tests found the horn did not function, turn signals were intermittent at best but i found this one out once i had done my set up then had to source the internet for an exact replacement (there’s a week including shipping)

anyhow once done and rewired with deutsch connectors the finished article

for those of you unfamiliar with them here’s a few photos

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so if you asking why use these and not the molex connectors that come with your bike, these ones…

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well, in the field the deutsch are are a lot more user friendly, you can isolate one individual wire without cutting it, remove it from the circuit, fix repair and replace easily, with the molex you can’t do this as easily, also the deutsch is waterproof (resistant) the molex isn’t creating possible shorts

they are standard equipment on Harley Davidson and Cat powered trucks amongst others, easily sourced on the interent and a few spare pins is all you need for a repair (very unlikely the pin with break)

the ‘almost’ finished article

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using these i can take off my fairing simply undoing three connectors and three nuts

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as i had changed from standard incandescent bulbs to LED’s, there is a problem…the LED is ‘just on’ it runs on full power, so to make it switchable for high beam and low beam using the stock switch you will need one of these

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its a Skene IQ170 controller Jerry is an inmate on here and he has put together a very good product, it allows the use of the stock switch and make hi/lo function work without having to add anymore switches, there is also an upgrade on there to custom brightness you can look into

here’s the instructions

but for basics this is what you get

lo beam

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hi beam

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another useful thing i have added is a 12 volt digital voltmeter, useful to know where your system is at, at all times especially if you add heated vests, gps, heated grips, spot trackers, hardwired cameras etc

i got this from adv monster here and quite simply connect it to a key 12 volt power wire, black to ground and red and blue combined to power, i had one of these on my XT for thousands of miles and its works great, also the ‘power on’ orange bulb in my system pops very ofter so this basically replaces it, i used 3M double sided tape to mount it on top of the steering dampner

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my finger is pointing at a 12 volt power connector that i added

as you can see there is also a GPS on the bars now as well, make sure you have this to keyed power otherwise it will constantly draw from your battery even when your bike is off, then you get to use your kickstarter :lol3

while waiting on the new flasher to arrive it was time to mount a few things, to make my life more comfortable/ safer/ easier for working on the bike etc…

my bike (not sure about yours) doesn’t have a front brake pressure switch, so no brake light activation when its used and we all know that front brake gets used a lot…so i added a pressure switch into the system

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the pegs on my bike are the same ones for the mini bikes, so tiny and not many options so a post on here and ‘gunnerbuck’ stepped to tell my to change the left side mount so i could use any pegs

i had this problem with my peg extenders

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difference in mounts and saved almost a pound in weight

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another inmate ‘motomark39’ contacted me with a stock set of pegs unused from 2004 :thumb

now my new extender fit, they are from zipty racing…yes i know they are huge but i am not riding solely on sigle track so this is more of a comfort upgrade

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here they are mounted and in the background a dreaded Touratech piece!!! The only compnay i could find who made one, or i would have to resort to cutting the plastic piece up…i took the TT route

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the horn had failed so a replacement from sickspeed and 124 db output

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the front turn signals were a joke, cheap Chinese crap so i mounted some hi output LED’s onto the fairing….i will deal with the same junk on the back once i get my luggage situation worked out

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the cross member for the tank is made from aluminum and Safari suggest you call them for a new one if this bends in a fall…not a problem if you are going home every night, i’m not so i made a more substantial one and also changed out the 60 cent pipe clamp out and replaced it with a U bolt

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seat concepts made me a seat, gripper top and carbon sides with orange stitching

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a thermometer from a fish tank store for a $1, mounted on the inside of the fairing

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i filled the tank, got the stated 27 liters in it :clap…took the bike for a quick test ride and had some carb issues, back home carb rebuild and now its all good

rode 75 miles today and everything seems to be where i want/ need it to be, just need to change the gearing to 16 or 17/42 for more streetable riding, right now its at 15/45 which is wheelie territory in every gear

headed out to Calico Basin this afternoon and here’s the finished article

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the graphics were done by a company here in Las Vegas called 702 hydrographics

the plastics are coated with a hydrographic ‘real fire’ film over a special paint and then clear coated for durability, might not be everybodies ideal color scheme but i like it, and thats what counts….and it make me visible to the crazy car drivers here in vegas…but don’t be surprised if the bike turns solid black when i’m heading into a country where i need to blend in as much as possible

i’m heading to Overland Expo this weekend so if you are there stop by and say hello

todays delivery

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i have left this build thread dormant for quite a while, i got a few messages from various inmates asking if it was complete, well no its not so i’ll fill in some of the gaps right now….

the Safari 27 liter gas tank DOES NOT bolt straight on the 2003 SXC with the BST carb, unless you do something along these lines

put a blob of grease on the top of the carb to determine the exact point where it touches, it is only a very small area…

once you have located that you need “to move it” what i did was using a heat gun, heated the tank slowly and then using a metal working dolly press down on the tank…

by doing this multiple times i created a small indentation in the bottom of the tank and it slipped right on, photos below, it was difficult to take a good shot but hope fully this will give you an idea of how to do it…the bottom of this tank is very think and it took a lot of pressure to get it to even move slightly, there is a slight ripple in the surface area but the integrity is still good as new

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here it is mounted

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if you remember i hat a rats nest for wiring, but found out later it was normal, it looked like this after previous owner/s had spliced in and butchered it all

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well after clean up and changing all the connectors to Deutsch fitting (look earlier in the thread for details) now its cleaner and more workable, if there is an electrical issue i can disconnect a certain wire or circuit and fix it there and then or ride to somewhere i can, a lot more difficult to do with the molex connectors

also keep in mind here that i have added a lot more wiring as on the SXC its minimal, so changing and adding new lights, GPS additional 12 volt power sockets also adds to the connectors

Deutsch connects are on quick release mounts to make them easier to work on

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i added a Loobman chain oiler, it is very basic, virtually nothing can go wrong, uses any oil, simple push of a button creates enough lubrication to more than double chain life…see his website for more detail, Oh, and very cheap, i mounted it up by the bars

basically fills about a thimble full of oil that will drop on the chain with gravity

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the cross brace for the Safari tank is made from Aluminum, i contact them to see if they had anything better/ stronger, i figured a couple of drops it would bend out of shape and one you straighten it a few times the strength is now compromised…i was told they are super cheap so if it breaks “and it will” call us and we’ll ship a new one to your house (for a price of cause)

as i won’t have a home and shipping it to Siberia or Patagonia is not really an option i made a new one from mild steel and powdercoated it, if it does break at least i can weld it back together

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a couple of do dads i added

louder horn but still reasonable small not like air horns but close to db level, $20 from fleabay

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more secure oil cap needs to be removed with an allen wrench NOT some kids little fingers or vibration

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everyone hates touratech, me included but i compromised as they were the only place i could find with a counter sprocket open guard, just somply for ease of cleaning and/ or checking the sprocket…and yes i know i could have filed down the plastic stock one!!!

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seat concepts seat, all i can say is perfect…i rode back from OX to Vegas the long way 420 miles, not an issue, next day i could have done it again, can’t say that for the stock seat, but what i can say for the stock seat is it fits with the 27 liter tank when its cover by them :clap

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1 3/8″ steel washer welded on the kick stand foot for stability and to stop the bike sinking in sand or soft ground. two minute job and then it went out with the rest of the stuff for powder coat

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welded the rear gas tank mount bolt in place, it is a press fit so eventually it will come loose and just spin, quick weld and it now solid…this is a shot of the under side

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changed the stock hosing out for silicone hosing, better quality, durability and flexibility, but if you do this make sure you get the right hose clamps as the stock ones will cut into the side of the hose over time…you need to get these from this company LINK

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i think everyone knows these guys with there folding mirrors THREAD LINK

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added some raditor guards from Bullet Proof later on they got powdercoated

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added additional brake lights and a mount made from some home depot shelving material

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new led turn signals from Tuff Lites, inmates thread HERE

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the round reflector at the bottom is also a running light and a brake light from fleabay HERE

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frictionless chain slider from BRP, you need the Husaberg 2005 to 2008 version which fits

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Midwest mountain engineering clutch lever, amazing reduction in pressure of 50% LINK

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the stock sub frame is great if you are just riding with minimal luggage but long distance or RTW like me it needs to be strengthened, one side is already done at the factory, here how to do the other side

remember if you EVER weld on you bike, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS disconnect your battery

get all the crap out of the way and clean the sub frame and grind off stock powder coat where welding is required

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get some 1 1/4″ by 1/4″ thick steel strap, home depot sells it for about $8…and cut it to a rough size like the other side the factory made

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two pieces are going to be crossed in the corner for additional strength where the subframe does a “Y” split

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once you have your pieces cut to size tack weld the longer piece on first

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centrally locate it on the frame rail, you will need a very slight arc in the material to make it follow the line of the sub frame

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here’s the first piece in place

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and now with the second piece added

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you now need to weld the whole thing, i TIG welded it because i have the equipment but it could also be MIG welded

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once you are done obviously let it cool, mounted to the bike if possible because as it cools it will try an deform itself a little as it wasn’t welded in a jig

once its cool try your plastics on there, mine DID NOT fit so i had to trim the insides down a little and this can be done with scissors…now you can carry a decent load with out fear of a sub frame crack :freaky

adding additional oil capacity to the SXC

i could not find a cooler with volume i liked or was useful also the stock oil pump is not really high pressure so i decided not to add additional oil to the system just to carry it, not wanting to carry plastic oil bottles in my luggage i made a auxiliary stand alone oil tank to the same size as the capacity of the bike 1.6 liters

first of all i made an extremely technical drawing of what i wanted to do…i really should have gone to the local kindergarten for this level of expertise but i took on the challenge

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after a quick calculation for volume V = π· r2· h

i found that although i needed 10 inches of length 3 inches was not big enough so had to find some 3 1/2″ material

as the volume was 1.15 liters and i needed 1.6, here’s the example

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i bought an aluminum fill cap off ebay and made the unit, mounted it to my newly reinforced subframe

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if you do this make sure you have enough clearance for full range of motion of the swing arm

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i also added a security feature so the cap cannot come off with vibration or inquizitive hands, the bolts aren’t visible when the side cover is on

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once everything was done it was powder coated along with the sub frame

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…hold on a dam minute – “how do you get the oil out?” on the lower front portion i have added a heavy duty petcock/ tap, this way as we all know you have to burp the system, i get what oil i need from this tank in a flat pack disposable container do my oil change in the required two stages, and with my old oil i top up my chain oiler on my bars (shown in an earlier post)

i had an issue with starting the bike, it would turn over maybe once then nothing, battery was good, very good in fact, so i went thru all the obvious, ECM, condensor, coil, relay, various grounds to the frame…nothing was consistant and i though i had somehow fried my electrical system

i order all new parts and waited for four weeks for a new ECM from Austria…once everything was here i mounted all the new parts, turned the bike over and it fired instantly…success :clap

i go and get all my riding gear on go to start the bike and nothing…i literally rewire the bike trying to find the fault and did but it was not obvious

the stock ground strap from the battery to the to the subframe was tight but it is a pressed compression nut not a threaded boss in the frame itself…purely by fluke i spotted a spark jump when i tried to fire the bike one time, so this stock ground position was tested and it tested good, but just for shits and giggles i moved it, to the front frame, and the bike turned over like never before

so i have now added a second ground strap, i used to do this with big inch high compression v twin motors to get every last drop of juice out of the battery so here is what is added for much easier starts just incase you ever run into the same issue

on a positive note: i now have a complete spare set of new electrical parts for my RTW :huh

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my suspension has been rebuilt by M Power, in Boulder City NV, Les the owner can be contacted at 702-219-9210, he builds every single set up to order, my rear was rebuilt and upgrade one off spring from Eibach to my weight specs, the front was resprung and valved and sealed with SKF seals…my bike now sits almost 3 inches higher and rides like a dream

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putting it all back together all bearings and moving parts we greased

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rear sprocket protector from Scotts

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i added rear peg mounts for tie down points for my Giant Loop saddlebags

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the rear luggage rack was a perfect fit for two sprockets held underneath it, test fit in photo with zip ties later replaced with steel hose clamps

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i pulled 12 volt power to the bars and it can be tempoarliy held there with a computer velcro strap when no plugged in the powerlett adaptor mounted in my tank bag

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little bit of vinyl for my website as you get asked so often on the road if there is a way of following the trip, in my website there is direct links to my ride report here on ADVrider

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added a hi output stator

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changed the oil filters (two) to stainless steel reusable ones

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I added a new clutch slave cylinder, i had planned to use a Sigutech, i emailed them four times and after two months i finally got a reply, based on this i didn’t use them. If there was an issue this could leave me screwed in the middle of nowhere

little more looking around and found the Oberon unit with dual seals, they are based a few miles from some of my family in England and response time was less than 24 hours…based on this they got my business

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you need to prebleed it off the bike with fluid and then mount it and rebleed in place

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to be honest not easy to bleed once mounted, i ended up bottom bleeding it then vacuum bleeding it to get pressure, once i did the pull is very smooth, and combined with the Midwest lever i have a very easy pull now

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bled with Magura blood

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i had a look at my carb and found the choke nut, the plastic shitty one had split

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i replaced it with the aluminum version from Warp 9

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while the carb was off i replaced the needle jet for the easier accessible version

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and also added slightly longer allen screws to the bottom of the carb, the ones the previous owner were only holding about one thread, that was a problem waiting to happen

carbon/ kevlar case covers came in from rally raid engineering in Australia

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As the SXC has no oil in frame and i have added the auxiliary oil tank i will be doing regular oil changes, not wanting to be threading in and out of the case i added a bleed screw to the left side oil line

i found a 8/32 – 3/8″ long counter sunk stainless screw worked the best so not as to block the inner feed

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as a back up i added a gas cap profill filter from Australia after reading on various ride reports of bad and dirty gas in far eastern Russia and Mongolia, this is cheap insurance

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the petcock that came with my Safari tank, had a minor leak so i replaced it with a Pingel unit which is obviously a much higher quality unit, only wished it had a detent so you could feel it lock in place in each of on/off/res positions

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