working toward the back of the bike I noticed the chain guide when I took it off was in a really bad way, so in turn this would mean the slider would be bad too at a guess due to bad chain tension and/ or alignment
Destroyed slider that at a guess was never checked so stock replacement is the way to go, for the guide a new stock piece runs around $65 + tax but a Warp9 runs less than $60…no brainer
While searching for the guide I came across rear brake caliper pins from ProCycle, having known a friend with a KLR round out his pins and have to trash his caliper this was a no brainer to buy them
on my WRR more than once I hit the rear rotor protector on rocks, looking for something similar for the DR guess who comes to the resuce again, yep, Warp9, simple fitment just transfer the hardware across and lube the holes!!!
All this was leading up to swingarm removal and a check of all the bearings and cringing while I took it all apart but to my surprise, it was all good, well greased and relatively clean. All that was a quick check of all the bearings and spacers and a cleanup, regrease and reinstall
At this point with the shock out, I put the rear wheel in and position the swingarm at a point where the mainshaft, pivot and axle are aligned
At this point there should be around 15-20mm of slack as the chain will be at its absolute tightest position. This is a help to find a measurement for this for correct chain tightness quickly, for me the sockets I use aligned with the chain slider and I’m good and then adjust the axle accordingly
Once thats done put the pivot plugs back in with a little RTV to stop moisture getting in there
and finish off installing the new Cogent shock in place of the stock POS
DR650’s BUILD FOR RTW – PART 4
