airbox and carb mods, something had been done, but I didn’t like it, there was a bunch of 90-degree plumbing tubes and the whole thing held together with bathroom caulk…it all had to go and a complete cleanup and carb rebuild
Sadly I forgot to take a photo but the 3 odd holes are where the 90’s were!!!
and caulk had been put in the left rear mount which had filled with dirt and that fitting was destroyed and spinning loose so had to be ripped out
I recut the airbox like this, it’ll make sense later…just about the same open area as the Procycle kit suggests but I had to work with what I had. A deburring tool for metal is an easy way to clean up the edges
Carbs were really bad and dirty inside and out
bottom screws were…ahem screwed!!! Tried with a JIS screwdriver and penetrating oil, then grips, got one but couldn’t get a good purchase on the other, then Wurth Rost-off to freeze and shrink it, then reverse drill bits and finally an easy out saved the day
and what do I find inside but more silicone and lots of dirt
The pilot jets had been either put in or removed with the wrong screwdriver. They were cleaned and reinstalled with a correct pilot jet driver (@motolab to source this)
Swapped out the choke nut from the plastic one that eventually either rounds off or cracks with the Warp9 one and added a little copper anti-seize and refit the who thing after doing a complete carb clean and rebuild, new jetting and needle with the better adjuster screw from Procycle.
Bad photo of anti-seize, sorry
One other thing I do with the carb is replaced more of the JIS screws with cap head allens at the cable mounting plate so if the carb needs to come off all you need to do is undo these two and then remove the cables in one piece so as not to have to add extra work to reset the cables when the carb gets refitted…pointing at with a flat blade screwdriver
Replaced the minute piece of foam in the secondary filter (under-diaphragm vent) with a little more substantial piece that fills the filter housing and used filter oil on it as well to assist with filtration so the slide doesn’t get unnecessary wear
2 thoughts on “DR650’s BUILD FOR RTW – PART 5”
Damn thanks for this write up! I was wondering how to go about when taking the carb off how the mission it will to refit the cables. If it is possible to remove it and refit with one screw and not undo the entire lot it will save a lot of time and hassles.
little tricks to save you time, try and get rid of JIS (Phillips) screws and change to stainless allens if possible, makes it even easier to do
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