Reading back over comments I reread @cyberdos and his comment about the kill switch, I go outside, hit the switch and it clicks in as it should…but then it won’t come back out. A little gentle persuasion and it comes out but next time it sticks again, time to dismantle. As he showed in his write up its a simple procedure and removing the little brass pin just stops the detent happening, now you just need to hold it in for about a second and the motor dies
this is where it hangs up
The culprit is directly above the red button piece, the likely cause is dirt in there that wears an untrue path.
I like my kill switch to be working 100% just in case the bike decides to go for a swim!!!
Other minor things…
Extra throttle and clutch cables in place, if you are questioning if this is worth it? On the TAT 2015 literally on the very last turn before hitting the beach in Oregon mine gave up all but two strands. Easy fix I had one in place to swap out, another rider who was staying at the same place riding the same bike as me (WRR) saw this and said his was feeling notchy so the following morning he called the local dealer to find none in stock and the closest one nearly 700 miles away. – You decide
Extra ground strap, this is from an early model Harley I had a few laying around, this has a couple of advantages, gives your battery just a little more juice and if your single ground (one the motor) isn’t grounding the frame too well, this will. This will help if you need to add items up near the bars, now you can ground up there and only return the positive lead if you have already used the extra connector.
Once I have it to correct size I cover it in heat shrink
Pegs were swapped on both bikes, I had a pair of Pomotobillet Adv pegs laying around so just grabbed a mount kit and for the other bike I went with Warp 9
The stock filter looked like they were done and wouldn’t survive another cleaning so new filter in place, I oil them and then add a filter sock (and carry extras) for quick and easy filter cleaning on the trail.
Brake snake for the offroad protection
Profill tank filter, extra filtration will never hurt
Changed out the stock (sized) batteries which were struggling to hold a charge after a 2-second starting attempt. Stock battery is around 130CCA, a buddy of mine works for Tucker Rocky and one of their brands is Bike Master. The make a lithium Ion battery that is actually smaller than stock size, and they include padding blocks to adjust height. The big positive for buying this battery is 250CCA and it can be charged with any standard charger, a Shorai battery needs a specific charger…dam does that starter motor spins easily now.
and it weighs 2.1lbs less
The is a stock (ish) CCA battery available as well if you want that, it’s slightly cheaper and puts ut 150CCA. I ran the 250CCA in my Super Tenere all over Mexico, Cuba, US and Europe for the last 18 months and never a single issue, started the bike first time every time from snowy conditions to over 100 degrees.
The next part WAS NOT necessary at all, but stronger wheels are a good thing, and 3.50 rear opens up a few more tire choices…and as the upcoming ride is planned to be 95%+ off road better is well, just better. I have read so many guys having cracked rims I didn’t want to add my name to the list.
So…Warp 9 on the phone again. 7000 series, matt black, 3.50 rear – stock is 2.50
with 320 front brake rotors, I’ve had too many close calls and as the DR’s front brake isn’t the best a braided line and a 320 rotor adds a lot of stopping power
The bikes are done so next thing for me was the final weight. They came in at 364.1lbs with everything on them but NO gas
I’ll add the final installment in a few days, that’ll cover luggage and tools…