To the Copper Canyon we go!

 

Our quick tour of BCN done we headed to the mainland, I took care of the chore across the border solo in AZ, it was weird to be back in the US albeit for only 90 minutes

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Not wanting to ride too far in a day after the AZ excursion we headed to one of most northern Pueblo Magicos, Magdalena de Kino a nice little place, we were the only tourists in town which are always fun, because if the locals see you twice they wave and say hello to you, like a long lost friend

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The center of the town is dominated by a large domed building that holds the Grave of Father Kino, who died in the year 1711 and is interred in a crypt near the mission he founded. The monument was constructed in 1966 after the discovery of Father Kino’s remains, a little weird looking down thru the windows to see this

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After the post from @Thomas B. we exchanged a few messages and headed his way, and here’s a guy who most of you won’t know or have even have any idea where he and his wife have ridden – an easy way to explain – EVERYWHERE! They are obviously now in MX but last year rode the BAM and the Road of Bones back to back and he has some killer video in his RR. As I see a few of you like Colebatch’s recent videos I know you’ll like Thomas’ stuff….start at the beginning HERE, he deserves more views for sure on his RR 

To get to them it was more than a few hours of mountain roads, a stopover in a nowhere town of Yecora, then to their location, Cuauhtémoc

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Only a few hours before we arrived he had put Sandra’s bike back in one piece (read his report to understand that), so we decided to ride together for a few days…

Thomas and Sandra left a little while before us from Ciudad Cuauhtemoc so they could get a feel for the motor rebuild, we arranged to meet them in Creel

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Our plan collectively was Batopilas, T & S told us they had help from @Tury also known as Mister Copper Canyon as he’d been riding here since ’72 and still riding at 75 and his riding group Chihuahua Motorrad, they had planned to be in Batopilas the same day, but we had no idea when, so we rode kind of not to know when to expect them

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Stopping for a break before the canyon the first rider showed up, telling us he was shooting photos of the group so to watch for 8 more riders behind us

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As we rode down to one of the main viewpoints they all arrived, I think we picked a better place to stop

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heavy rains from the previous weeks had left a trail of destruction the whole way down, from here we rode together to Juanita’s

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If you haven’t ridden down to Batopilas, it is a bucket list ride for sure, yeah it used to be unpaved and those of us that rode it back then will tell you it was more fun, but its still pretty great now as well – but the canyon is trying to take it back and doing its best to destroy the blacktop

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this is @Tury on his DR650

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All of us get into town and Juanita and Antonio are waiting for us

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and we do the Hotel entry thing…if you’ve never ridden in Latin America and heard about parking inside…this is what everyone is talking about

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Needless to say, we fill the place

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Now let me tell you a little about Chihuahua Motoradd, they are one of many motorcycle groups all over Mexico predominantly made up of richer riders and career professionals, doctor, lawyers, and businessmen etc. and love nothing more than to be generous.

…and some of the most fun guys you’d ever want to meet

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In Batopilas they were headed to here…

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It’s a boarding school for indigenous girls from the surrounding 50-60 villages; they come for up to 3 months at a time because where they live there are no schools, or their parents can’t afford education. Some of which are Rarámuri people (interesting read) and the guys bring mostly shoes for the girls and footballs (its Mexico its a football, NOT a soccer ball) for them and some of the local boys who live in town. Now don’t think this is a one time deal, these guys have donated something in the region of 20,000 pairs of shoes all over Mexico (IIRC) via all the various riding groups!

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Once the gifts were given to the girls we went out to see the boys, they were really happy to see the guys…

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once all the fun was finished it was time for a walk thru town, grab a few beers and then a BBQ

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What are your essential travel items, besides the obvious?

Packing is an art, but do you ever wonder what other riders ‘must have’ with them to make their trip comfortable?

What is your (un)obvious packed item?

Somethings may seem so obvious but you just forget them in the rush to get on the road, or not so obvious you might not think about them or think they are necessary until you are on the road when it might be too late to get what you need at a good price or availability.

So here’s a list I’ve compiled from talking to real riders who are ‘out there’. What may seem like a funny thing to carry to you, might be an essential item for another rider

As you travel RTW you meet an amazing array of riders who have their own way of doing it, and it’s always an interesting question to ask – besides the obvious, motorcycle, riding gear/ clothes, and basic tools for your bike – what are your other essentials you ‘must bring’?

If this question is asked to an American audience, a gun is an answer a lot as one of the items, the problem with carrying a gun is it’s not really that viable to even cross some state lines (due to various licensing laws) and definitely not borders. So, a gun, in essence, could be the biggest reducer of extended overland travel, besides lack of cash, so it’s not on the list.

The common thread here is ‘most’ of the items people feel are essential besides their main gear are less than $30, so are you missing something cheap that could make your life – safe, fun, secure, warm, riding, happy, not lost, clean or well

Below are links to some of the items so you can have a look if you are not familiar

if you really struggle with languages or are moving country to country a lot –

…and if you find nothing on that list consider this – I asked a rider a few years back, he told me he always packs a bacon sandwich as a stress reducer!

Once you’ve had a laugh and scratched your head at others and what they pack. The next fun question if you’re riding internationally or meet a group of international riders to lighten the mood and have a laugh is asking:

What noise does a (insert animal name) make…

For example: in English a dog goes – woof, woof, but in Lithuanian, it goes au, au

 

Gimme Shelter…life in a tent

As we are overlanders – people who live on the road permanently not just away for that once in a lifetime trip, we spend a great deal of time in a tent!

I’ll give you a few ideas about tents and camping and show you what works for us. When it comes to the tent you do get what you pay for, a cheap tent might last one season if lucky, a mid-range a few years and a high end 5,10 or 20 years isn’t unheard of.

 

To me, the requirements of a tent beside the obvious of keeping you dry if it rains and keeping bugs away in the wrong areas, are a little deeper. Headroom, access, vestibule, tent pole length, pack size are all major factors, but the weight isn’t a major one as a pound +/- on a motorcycle is not a great thing like it would be for a backpacker but for a motorcyclist it gives a lot wider choice of abode.

 

1 person tents –

I used this tent in the desert southwest solo riding and on the western TAT, mine was without the lighting so a little cheaper, I’m 6’1″ and I fit albeit ‘just’. Once I’m in there is virtually zero room for any gear inside, a small vestibule to put some gear but most will need to be left on the bike. Pack size was small, weight was minimal, I find this tent great for a few days to a week’s worth of riding in the backcountry.

1person tent envy, these are the ultimate in one person tents, I have seen them in person but never owned one, just amazing, really the best of the best the Rolls Royce of 1 man tents

2 person tents –

I have worn a few out in search for the right tent, I use a 2 man when i ride solo for a sustained length of time and know I will need to have my gear inside and off the bike so that little extra room is a great benefit

Small budget tent – I used one these for two seasons and it worked great but once it started to deteriorate it went downhill in a hurry

This is a new version of the tent I used when I rode RTW the first time on an enduro bike (KTM 625) it has decent size for one person, small pack size, and lightweight, it is also short in length when packed 20 inches

 

Two up riding –

…and the search for a good 3 man tent, a little more space inside is required and a bigger vestibule

In 2015 I was offered a partial sponsorship by Hilleberg ‘the tent maker’, I researched all their tents and this one fitted our requirements. It has an amazingly small pack size for such a massive tent, poles about 17 inches long, great ventilation, easy setup and a vestibule huge enough to sit up and cook in, it was like a 2-bed apartment. After about a year with this tent, we stopped using it for one simple reason – head height! At 6’1″ I could not sit up inside the sleeping area of the tent without bending my neck, on a heavy rainy day when you are trapped that is just not good.

So if you aren’t 6’1″ or taller this is a great option, no its a fantastic option and you should expect it to last 10 + years of regular use.

Other 3 and 4 mans we’ve tried.

After the crooked neck stint we decided to go cheap and spacious, the Marmot I could nearly stand up in, pack size was great, a little bigger than the Hilleberg, all was going well until we got the tent very dirty in a campground and washed it, the people we were staying with, while we were out, ‘did us a favor’ and put it in the drier, it ruined the waterproofing because of the heat of the drier…time to find a new home!

 

Our current tent

We were riding thru Steamboat Springs, Colorado, the home of Big Agnes, outside their retail outlet they had this ‘hotel’ pitched on the grass. We got in tried it, in the sleeping area there is simply enough room for our two sleeping bags and the clothes we take off before getting in them, so a snug fit. Oh, but the vestibule…it’s huge, big enough to fit both of our gear and sit and cook if it’s raining, we are super happy with the tent after getting used to the sleeping area size…and I can sit up in it.

If you like a little space between you and your sleeping partner when you sleep they do make a 3 person version for a few dollars more, we opted for a smaller pack size

 

Other tents we’ve tried

This is a single wall tent, extremely sturdy I found great in areas like the desert southwest where there is zero humidity and cooking outside is an option most days. Once taken into more humid areas I found myself feeling damp in the mornings when the tent material couldn’t allow all the moisture to escape prior to making my sleeping bag outer feel damp or even wet

Absolutely cavernous, but expect to lose a massive amount of luggage space, and be prepared for the weight…I had it for car camping which it is good for, motorcycle camping not so much

 

Tents I’d like to try – tent envy is a thing!

These tents always seemed like a good idea as long as you knew you would have soft enough ground to be able to knock stakes firmly in

 

Whats a camp without a campfire?

I have carried one for year, small enough to fit in the bottom of a saddlebag or pannier, just enough weight to knock in a tent peg, and useful for making kindling, but when a bigger fire is need and logs are laying around a little sawing might be required (or if a fallen tree is across the trail). That when this comes in handy and packs small, I used to have one strapped along my bars, or if you need smaller this is a new option that I saw had great reviews but I’ve never seen one in person.

Life on a cliffs edge…

thought I’d do a quick check in with you guys…

As we live on the road as opposed to taking a trip for a few months or a year or so, once in a while we need to catch up on real life and ‘get things done’ – some in Arizona and some in Mexico but we are again finally moving.

We spent our last night in AZ sitting around the fire talking bullshit, telling lies, drinking beer and eating fruit that wouldn’t travel

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A few hours later we were crossing at Tecate, which has to be one of the most chilled crossings there is

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So how do we let you know we really did cross that border and what would be specific to Mexico, perhaps?

In the first restaurant, we go in “the Donald” is in a painting wearing a sombrero, looking like he’s pinching one off, the last supper is eating tacos and empanadas and drinking coke and our bikes are parked securely inside our apartment!

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We had a couple of weeks in Rosarito on a cliff top with a friend dealing with an amazing sunset every day

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Running back and forth to TJ on a regular basis for two weeks, I could show bad photos of TJ but, how about this instead, TJ is looking better and better, money is coming in and it has cleaned up a lot since my last visit

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…and meeting local bikers who show some real uniqueness!

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parking in the city by day, keeping us secure underground

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Once all the ‘real life’ stuff was completed we ran down the coast a little staying at Mamas

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Then went looking for whales who’d been spotted way off the coast of Rosarito, so we went to the #1 spot further south Guerrero Negro, the problem was we travelled south obviously too quick and the best we could do was this!

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This was our southern point, we’d never planned to hit Cabo, I’d spent a bunch of time down there in 80’s and 90’s and wanted to keep it like that in my memory and Egle didn’t really care to go. After just crossing into Baja Sur by a few k’s then we turn back north, and our Mexican adventure will begin to happen.

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We headed north, made the turn, stopped in to say hi to Coco and drop him some chicken and grab a quick beer before continuing further north

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Then a little sand

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Just one more chore, we arranged a delivery in Yuma to make our lives easy, so I make a quick dash across the border for 90 minutes, and now our travels are back on track and can continue at the leisurely pace we like. Mainland here we come…

Off-Road Gear, Shorter Rides, One Month or Less

I get asked about gear all the time and I tell people what works for me may not work for you, but I will tell you and you can decide?

For rides like the TAT, CDR, BDR’s and a local daily or week rides I pretty much have always used the same type of gear and I’ll set you out a list below with links and point out why these items worked for me.

Your packing regime. Regardless of the length of your trip or your location, you should be wearing the minimal amount, basically, what would I wear on the hottest driest day? Everything else is luggage, right?

On this type of ride, you are going to be hot for sure, technical riding in difficult terrain raises body temperature so good quality gear that can breathe is a must so you don’t get fatigued. I have increased the quality of my gear as the years have gone on and even though what I wear now may seem expensive to some riders I am actually spending less in the long run because it lasts.

 

For me what works from the floor upwards –

I have used them for years, they take a while to wear in but the protection is superb, the fit and quality I was very pleased with. No, they are not waterproof – a full MX boot will not be, they do not exist, don’t even bother looking. Before getting the Gaernes I was wearing FOX boots for half the price, not as good but they were the best I could afford

I have used socks from various companies and the price is always in the same ballpark but the quality and how long they last aren’t. I currently have a pair these with me on my current RTW, which I used on my previous RTW and also on the TAT. They are a couple of years old and still in great shape. I am amazed, I have no idea what Klim does differently to make their socks but it works.

I prefer ITB pants because there’s less material to get caught on anything; cooler, lighter and again I use Klim as the price is similar to some other higher end brands that I’ve used but they just last longer, are made better and hold up regardless of how many get offs you have…but saying that, if your budget is small, a pair of MX pants will do the trick too

As MX pants don’t have built-in knee protection you WILL need some. My preference is a set that has two straps below the knee, the reason for this twofold – if you have a strap above the knee it can cause chafing and you may also want to get longer over the knee socks. While these are good for racing (short rides) they aren’t good for week-long rides as they make you too hot.

It can take a while to get used to knee guards if you’ve never used them, your boot and the straps will hold them in place perfectly in case of a fall. If I was racing I would spend a lot more on knee pads to stop hyperextension of the knee and if you have any knee issues you may want to look at something like this.

This is an area that is overlooked by a lot of riders, but if you think about how you fall? If you go down with the bike, there is a good chance that your hip will hit the ground sooner or later. Most pants have a small pad in a pocket that is worthless, do yourself a favor and spend a few dollars, the first fall they will pay for themselves.

Yes you can wear a t-shirt but a merino wool base layer will keep you cooler, stink a lot less, washes easier, dry quicker and feel better against your skin. I’ve found Icebreaker to be one of the better brands out there

My personal preference is a hardshell with a mesh body I feel it breathes better, but some people prefer a tight shirt type, I personally find this type too warm but its all personal preference

I like this to be loose, easy to get on an off over the compression suit which gives me a free range of motion. I wear a Klim because I got a smoking deal on sale from Amazon for $20 including shipping, in a basic shirt there is not a lot of difference in quality, $20-50 and what you like the look of.

If you go on a ride and you know the temperatures are going to be cooler than normal a heavier shirt might be better for all day riding when a normal shirt isn’t enough, layering is too bulky and a jacket just seems like overkill – you might want to think about this $140 shirt, WTF I hear you say $140, why would I pay that much for riding shirt! Well until you’ve seen one in the flesh you won’t understand, it is simply the best riding shirt money can buy for riding in cooler areas and amazingly durable, expect to get multiple seasons of use out of it, it will outlast your cheap polyester shirt over and over and over again.

Helmets. This could be the biggest expense of all, over the years I have used a lot of styles and brands, in the photo, I am wearing an Arai XD great quality helmet that I was happy with. After over 100,000 miles with it, I needed a new one and now wear a Klim Krios.

A carbon fiber work of art that is much lighter and a similar price but doesn’t create as much neck fatigue for me.

Years ago I would wear an MX helmet as I couldn’t afford anything too expensive and to me, all I wanted to do was ride, I would expect to buy a new helmet after every season or if I had a fall that my head was impacted.

Depending on your riding style and where you ride a neck brace might be an item you want to look at closely, I am seeing more and more riders wearing them and if its a safety item you are considering I think it is an item where quality is the best way to go, and it doesn’t get any better than this

Another item that can vary dramatically in price, I personally cannot see a great deal of difference for dual-sport riding so I go cheap and get a mirrored lens as they look cool in photos, all I need them for is to keep dust and sand out of my eyes especially in the west.

For racing I would spend a lot more for goggles, have the option to add tear offs or even a remote lens that scrolls. You are more likely to get roosted in a race than on a trail so added quality is worth it in that case.

Again I pick Klim here, maybe because I used them and they last longer, I’m willing to spend $10 more to have gloves last 2, 3 or even 4 times as long. I prefer a very lightweight glove to have more feel on the bars…YMMV.

It’s going to rain at some point, right? I hate riding in the rain and I hate getting wet, I searched around for a long time and found Goretex over pants were my best option, someone on eBay was selling some skiing over pants, they are perfect and I can put them on without taking my boots off, they also have stud fasteners on the waist to help to put them on quickly. These you’ll have to hunt down yourself…I paid $40 inc. shipping

When I found these I also found a jacket on sale from the same guy, lightweight snowmobile jacket that has been discontinued (was his description). Its Goretex again and packs small but keeps me dry and didn’t realize it when I bought it (because his photos and description were crap) it was Klim and I paid $150! You can still find them in a few select sizes  I have friends who use MSR waterproof jackets and swear by them,  and again these pack really small.

 

Hope this helps to give you an idea of what I have found to work for dual sport riding in the summer months.

You could fit yourself out for a couple of hundred dollars or over a thousand, it all depends on how deep your pockets are, and how long you want or expect things to last.

Any questions reply in the comments section and i’ll get back to you.

 

Packing For Long Term Adventure and RTW trips in 70 liters

As a RTW rider, there are always questions that come up – This is a question that comes up a lot….how do you pack for RTW trip?…so here we go

***Packing is an objective thing, whats good for me may not be good for you – that’s the disclaimer done :lol3

…but saying that maybe a few ideas may pop into your head if you read this. Regardless of what luggage you take, be it hard or soft whatever the volume you WILL FILL IT – fact!!!

If you do take ‘that’ larger luggage at some point you will hate the additional unnecessary weight you are carrying around

As I have been doing this for years I constantly try and reevaluate and reduce the volume I’m carrying but still be comfortable in every situation. Having been fortunate enough to be able to stop back where I store my gear (in AZ) has let me do yet another revision and this is what I will be carrying for at least the next five years – this is to cover both hemisphere’s four seasons and on and offroad riding. We may spend a little more at the outset but it pays off if you are on the road for a long time, good gear simply last, cheap gear eventually fails and then you need to rebuy and most likely have now spent more than if you’d just bought the good stuff in the first place.

A few months back one of our bikes was attacked by a bear, the luggage was basically destroyed on the exterior so we had options – keep the same or change. We decided to change. We changed up to Mosko backcountry 35-liter panniers and a 25-liter duffle which is 95 liters but we are now carrying less and the weight is lower…I’ll explain.

We went thru our kit and found we can fit everything we need in the panniers if we want to, and have zero weight on the seat.

When we got to AZ we went thru our gear that we’d ridden with for 20,000 miles in the US and Canada, which was similar to what we’d ridden with for the previous year in Europe and looked to see what we could change, it wasn’t much but it made a big difference with where we carried the weight, this is huge for us as we ride offroad a lot.

So our final packing looked like this – Egle on the left, Me on the right

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So whats in there, let’s start with Egle –

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2.  clothes

3.  clothes

4. clothes

5. some toiletries

6. first aid

7. goggles

8. 10-liter bladder

9. 2-liter bladder

10. kitchen

11. MSR helmet

12. Klim gloves

13. Big Agnes sleeping pad

14. Bear safety alarm

15. boots – these were shown as we were waiting for our Gaerne SG12’s to arrive

16. Sunglasses and waterproof/ shockproof camera

17. 1/2 of tent

18. Big Agnes sleeping bag – lost ranger 15 degree

19. More toiletries and vitamins

20. Computer and case

21. Mosko Moto 25 liter duffle – empty

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23. Klim Altitude jacket

24. Klim Badlands pants

***not shown – bike cover, first gear heated jacket, pillow, tank bag, 2x Pacsafe, bike lock, Sena communication

Ladies, if you need to get more detail she’ll be doing a detailed breakdown on her WomenADVriders page soon

As for me –

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2. Dirty laundry bag

3. Tent Poles

4. Charger/ battery pack (not taken) – Anti-Gravity, failed the following day, third failure from this company…I’m done with them!

5. Towel

6. Big Agnes Q-Core SLX sleeping pad that packs to the size of a can of coke and Round Mountain Pillow that packs to the size of lemon

7. warm weather clothes – 3x t-shirt, 2x pants, 3x socks, 3x underwear

8. cold weather clothes – Klim gloves, Klim Socks, under armor 4.0 leggings and 4.0 shirt

9. hydration pack

10. waterproof socks – Klim COVERT GTX LINER…just in case, I hate wet feet

11. USB cables

12. Big Agnes tent – Copper Hotel HV UL2, packs very small and has a huge vestibule

13. Big Agnes sleeping bag – Lost Ranger 15 degree

14. Cooking pots – also in here is an $8 Walmart frying pan that we found is better more durable most of the camping cookware

15. Basin Range Padded jacket

16. Klim Krios Helmet

17. Klim suspenders

18. Klim Badlands pants

19. Klim Carlsbad jacket

20. Mosko Moto 25-liter duffle, empty –  doubles as a backpack

21. Klim goggles

22. Power/ charging cables/ extra batteries

23. 3x camera – DSLR, 18-135 zoom lens and prime lens, high-end P&S and waterproof/ shockproof P&S 

24. Computer and case

25. Paperwork

26. Toiletries

27. boots – these were shown as we were waiting for our Gaerne SG12’s to arrive

28. Klim DAKAR GLOVE

29. Bike cover

  1. ***not shown – another 2-liter bladder, 3 piece cooking knife, chain lube, sunglasses, 2x Pacsafe, tank bag, Sena communication, Sena camerasbike lock, cam buckle straps for holding the bag on the back seat and they double as tie downs for ferries and tow straps…from Mosko

 

how much space does all that take up?

140 liters, 70 liters per bike not packed tightly with two empty duffles for an extra 50 liters of space for food…tools are packed separately in a tool tube

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Tools, as a first-time owner of a DR, tools were a little unknown EXACTLY what I’d need, so for the 20,000-mile test ride, I packed a little too much! I now had the time to reevaluate what I was carrying. Laid out in its entirety it looks like this, we have doubles of a few items, just in case we get separated and need to fix a flat or a simple mechanical fix. The doubled up stuff is on Egles bike and will rarely be touched or is for service work or preventative maintenance

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The main tools I carry that I find useful are these below, with these and repair kit I can fix or take apart 95% of the bike and remove wheels for flats. I keep a second pump in my tool tube, spare inner tubes are in the luggage. This is a kit I have pieced together using mostly RRR Tools and Motion Pro for compactness and lightness.

I usually end up working on other peoples bikes on the road so I may have a little more than needed for a DR

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Fully packed it is just this big and fits perfectly in a 4″ ABS tube with a locking cap on my bike

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DR650 prep after a 20,000 mile test ride

In a week, we leave the US to ride south on our two DR650’s, we have just ridden across the US and Canada on what we like to call a test ride, of 20,000 miles. Now there is a little service work to do and a few items to change due to failure, fix some areas that failed, make other areas better and some just leave alone.

The bikes are now ready to continue onwards and southwards, we travel s.l.o.w.l.y. to take in countries for a long time when and where possible, we are in the mindset of 3-6 months per country as we’ll ride south and then back north trying to complete a loop of South America

Cuba is also on the horizon again, this time offroad when and where possible :wingsand Central America (maybe) on the way north – so as rough calculation we are talking years until we speak English as a first language again…stayed tuned

Next post will be tools and packing, this post is final prep of the bikes

We have got emails asking for more details, so here you go. This is the first time owning a DR650 so the ‘test ride’ was good and offered an insight into how capable this bike really is.

If you read the original build thread a massive amount of work was done to the bikes to get them ready, its long and very detailed – here

The lists – and I will break them down into more detail as too why if it’s unclear

Basic service was completed on –

  • oil change
  • clean filter
  • grease neck bearings
  • grease swingarm bearings
  • grease shock pivot
  • check and set the valves
  • new brake pads

Everything else

  • vacuum flush brakes and change the fluid
  • recover seats
  • rebuild carbs
  • air filters and socks
  • chain guard
  • cush drive rubbers
  • sprockets and spares
  • chain swap
  • weld rear rack to add structure
  • side stand foot
  • headlights swap
  • turn signal swap
  • make fairing
  • tool tube swap
  • weld exhaust
  • tank rubbers
  • foot peg spring
  • license plate security screws
  • weld on side stand foot
  • valve cover bolt
  • heated jacket
  • make windshield
  • make front tank mount

The basic service stuff is simply that – basic, something we all do; but as we will ride from Arizona straight into Mexico it is just a good feeling to have all new consumables in place. Some weren’t necessary but why ride with brake pads that have maybe 2-3,000 miles left on them and then have the hassle of finding replacements? I know now I’m good for another 20,000 miles or more – make sense?

Everything else

  • bleed the brakes and change the fluid

brake fluid is a consumable and easily forgotten, it breaks down from heat and moisture. All summer long we were in the ria or in the mountains braking hard, a few dollars for fresh fluid is a no brainer…when was the last time you changed yours?

  • recover seats

I had a Seat Concepts and Egle has a Sargent, mine was looking a little worse for wear and she simply didn’t like her’s at all, very uncomfortable for long days in the saddle. New seats are both from Seat Concepts, the commuter. it fits our riding style and is good and comfortable

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  • rebuild carbs

In Newfoundland, we had major carb issues! The float is held in place by two O rings that I had replaced 10,000 miles before. The had dried out, shrunk and become brittle, this allowed the float to move when riding causing an overly rich mixture because the gas constantly flowed.

So as we are now at 20,000 miles into this ride it seemed obvious to check 10 + 10, get my thinking? They were good so all I can figure is I got a bad batch of O rings (I now have spares as well). The simple test here is to check as you put the float in place on the carb body it ‘clicks’ into place, then make sure your float height is correct and replace the float bowl.

An added way to check everything is good when on the road is add a small length of clear tubing to the float drain. This is a visual aid – if you crack the float bowl drain screw the level in the tube is held against the carb body should be around 1-2mm above the line where the float bowl attaches to the body. This will save time on the road if you have a carb issue. this way you can check float height at a glance and if you have a stuck float.

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new filters and socks, again to leave with fresh consumables, fresh filter oil, and a clean sock to make a filter cleaning in remote locations a breeze, we also carry extra socks. Remove side cover take off a dirty sock, put a clean sock on – ride!

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  • chain guard

The stock chain guard is weak and flimsy so a little repair was needed, redneck engineering – siding and rivets!

  • cush drive rubbers

As the bikes were used with 20,000+ miles on them when we got the who knows if the cush drive rubbers were original or not. They lasted until about 38,000 miles then they needed to be replaced but replacements couldn’t be found where we were (at least one month wait) so, I did the quick fix – for those of you that aren’t familiar, a 1×1 inch square of inner tube put in next to the stock rubber adds a little width and takes away that jerking feeling that bad rubbers will give you. New ones installed so good again for around 40,000 miles, maybe enough to ride to Ushuaia?

These two are obviously together, I have changed from the 525 to the 520 after a snapped chain in Vermont and a bike shop not knowing what a 525 was! Central and South America has a limited supply of 525 chains so planning ahead is required or use a 520 and change slightly more often but have more availability. We carry spare front and rears bolted to the bike so all we’ll need to find is a chain for the next swap…should be good for 30-50,000 miles

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  • weld rear rack to add structure

the racks we got had a failure after about 12,000 miles from the rough riding on the Translab Highway at high speed. At the time a simple welding fix was done but to add some structure I have added an additional brace between the top and side racks and made so it’s removable when needed.

I have a friend who is in the process of designing a completely new styled rack that will be much better and structurally stronger but not heavier than whats available right now, but sadly it won’t be completed until next year

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  • side stand foot

I simply forgot to add a side stand foot on Egles bike, so just making up for my CRS issues, larger washer and also extended her side stand as her suspension has been reworked and the bike is now a little taller

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  • Suspension work, Cogent Dynamics did a service on both shocks and increased the spring rate on Egles as it was a little soft. Their shock is perfect for RTW riding they use common components that can be serviced almost anywhere @michnus

We rode 20,000 miles with an $8 LED headlight that DID NOT fail, in all actuality it was a great help riding offroad because it was simply more visible than stock especially in dusty conditions and if it had failed a replacement was a few days shipping away.

Now we are leaving the US getting a replacement is not so easy so I have refitted the stock lens but used a $15 LED instead of an H4, we’ll run these until they fail and then when needed H4’s are easy to obtain as we ride south

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  • make fairing

$10 trash can, 3-minute you-tube vid and now we have a windshield

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the turn signals were on the stock fairing so they needed to be moved, the glue holding them tore them apart so I replaced with a screw-in unit instead mounted onto the Barkbusters, these big Safari tanks limit what will work – mounted just outside the crash zone…hopefully

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  • tool tube swap

I simply got tired of 3D Tetris every time I need a tool from the tool tube, I had reduced the length to about 20″ from 24″…I went back to a 24″ for sanities sake

  • weld exhaust

On Egle’s bike, the rear mount had failed, so a quick fix was done

  • tank rubbers

somehow, somewhere I had lost one rubber mount from under her tank when I took it off, replacements were ordered and glued in place. ***note to self, check both sides of frame to see they are both there before mounting the tank

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  • foot peg spring

One had snapped, this was a first for me, 2-minute fix/ replacement

Last year when I was in Mexico chatting with the police they were telling me in some cities there is a policy in place to remove the license plate from the vehicle and confiscate it until ‘the fine’ is paid. If the plate cannot be removed an officer may or may not be waiting for you by your vehicle when you return. Also, theft of none local plates in – enter a countries name – is a thing in some Latin countries like collecting trophies, this is a royal PITA if it happens…solution security torx – done

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  • valve cover bolt

on my bike the intake/ right bolt always felt like it was about to pull the threads out, I guess because this bike has been touched by so many prior to my ownership, so the few times I had taken off the valve cover I just babied the bolt back in – it just failed! Dam, remove head, drill, and tap, buy a new gasket, reset the timing chain etc…

NOPE – the bolt is a 6mm x 1.0 – there is a rarely used 7mm x 1.0 bolt, very lightly and carefully drill the hole out and retap, because the threads are the same pitch, not much material is harmed so the tap makes easy work of it…fixed. It leaves one problem, the head of the bolt is an 11mm wrench, I don’t carry one and really don’t want to for one bolt…grid down the head to fit a 10mm instead

Egle is cold a lot, so her bike now has a connection fitted so she can use her new Firstgear heated jacket

  • make front tank mount

The stock original front tank mount was an aluminum piece, Safari does it to save weight obviously and they tell you if it breaks just order a new one, tough to do in Bolivia! I went to my buddies waterjet and made new stainless ones instead!

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UT, ID, OR, CA in hurry, the DGR and a quick run by VoG and ‘The Ditch’

new gearWhen everything is starting to seems too familiar we decided to go and see a few people before we leave the US. We are reviewing all our gear and i’ll do a separate post on it but needless to say it involved a few familiar companies and maybe not familiar locations.

We headed out to Idaho to see Klim, left with some ‘new gear’

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then it was across the state to see Lendon in his brand new Seat Concepts building, did you know SC makes about 2000 seats a month!!! No wonder they needed to expand to ID

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Then to the smallest building of all, this one where a luggage empire is growing at an alarming rate, Mosko Moto

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We are glad to call the companies and owners friends but its interesting how they all seem to have a similar story, small beginnings from a small workshop or a little garage to a worldwide name…so from Egle and I a big thank you doing what you do and keeping us safe, dry, comfortable and able to carry what we need with ease.

There must be some magic in the air between the 40th and 45th parallels of the northwest, it is surprising how many companies are in that area.

Then it was a very quick trip to the left coast for Egle to meet an associate editor and her husband for a short time in the Portland area, where we missed the DGR by about an hour so i only got scraps

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at least the bike in the wall art seems right!

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We have a bunch of stuff to do in AZ before we start speaking Spanish so it was a very quick ride south, taking in a few familiar sights, VoG and what referred to as ‘the ditch’ by helicopter pilots from Vegas

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Mountains, Dirt Roads, Snow…oh, and a BEAR Attack!

Since the refusal from Guinness, our route has been a little random, to say the least. I’m trying to make the most of our time and show Egle some of the best parts of the country I can but also avoiding fires, rain and cold…the last one I failed on this week, you’ll see!

Before leaving Moab a ride thru Arches is a must, so…

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riding back thru the park we passed Graham Francis, we’d been talking via the internet for years since we both were riding an XT660Z, now we both have XT1200’s, he was in the US for a couple of months touring around, small world! He came over and stayed with us for the night

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We got an invite from D-Train for Egle to do some training with W38M in their intermediate/ advanced off-road course and I offered my services to shoot the proceedings, so instead of ever westward we turned back east and headed for Ouray…via a little dirt of course

John Brown

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Lands End Road

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Grand Mesa area

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Our route took us over Hagerman Pass where the hydraulics had failed on this equipment right in a perfect spot!

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ATV’s and side by sides have really exposed the rocks a lot on this pass, the climb was interesting having to read the line way ahead so not to get caught out, but on the eastern side, it was a lot smoother…:lol3

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somewhere near Buena Vista we grabbed a camping spot a few miles from 1951

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Up we go again

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Afternoon storms are a big thing in the fall in Colorado

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That night we stayed in Lake City, the previous night a bear was wandering down the main street with two cubs, some genius in an RV from Texas who was cooking came out to take a photo but left their door open, where did the bear go…straight inside with the two cubs, the Texans had to change plans and eat out for the rest of their stay! I laughed at this but karma will kick in…

During the night there was torrential rain which made us wonder what was happening at the top of Engineer, you guessed it snow!

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in some places 12-18″ deep

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A little lower down at the start of Mineral, no snow but wet, and if you’ve gone up or down that section you know the amount of steps and sheer drops, it’s a hard slog so add mud and the concentration level is very high

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The next morning we meet up with W38M where they were teaching guys to make big GS’s handle like dirt bikes…kind of

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After a day or power slides, loose shale training, drifting etc the following day it was a chance to go into the real world and see if they were listening and had found new skills?

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We arrived at the meetup point a little late because we had a BEAR attack Egle’s bike trying to get half a cucumber we’d forgotten in the bottom of the Mosko’s, all our other food was secure hundreds of yards away but just that ‘one’ thing. Black Bears are predominantly vegetarians if you didn’t know

The bear came into the camp caught a scent and pushed Egle’s bike over from the right down on the kickstand side and then stood on the bike and was attempting to tear into the luggage.

Now, this where you have to use your imagination – It’s around midnight/ 1 am, for the last few hours the guys who’d put his tent ‘near’ us was sawing logs (snoring very loudly for non-Americans) we both couldn’t sleep so we put in earplugs. We DID NOT hear the bike fall over, we DID NOT hear the bear trying to tear into the luggage.

‘The snoring man’ HE DID, the bike landed about 5 feet from his tent, he stuck his head out to see what was going on, couldn’t see a thing (it’s dark remember) grabs a flash light shines it in the direction of the noise – and a bears face is FIVE FEET away!!!

The way he described the experience is this – “when I shone the light it went right in the bear’s eyes, we stared at each other for what seemed like an eternity, the black bear I guess about 5 feet long about 300-400lbs, was standing on the bike and trying to rip the luggage apart with its teeth and claws. I froze, then shouted out a bears trying to eat that Mosko, and then it just casually walked away. I’m from the east coast I have never seen a bear in real life, never thought I’d see one this close….FUCK this place I’m moving to a log cabin or a hotel room for the rest of my time in Colorado!”

I posted this on FB but not in this detail and there were the obvious stupid comments (its FB) but one guy said he had his hard aluminum panniers ripped open by a bear! You know you see other companies show their bags being thrown out of a truck window and the like, or down some stairs…Well Pete @Sideoff don’t bother with ANY of that we have put Mosko to the ultimate test in the wild and Mosko Moto passed with flying colors…we ate the cucumber for lunch :lol3

The damage, outer bag is done but inner shows teeth and claw marks but no real penetration

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We left town and climbed Corkscrew from the Ouray side then Hurricane and California, if you’ve ridden those from that direction you know what these guys on these big GS’s were feeling like when they reached the top, a few dropped and dented bikes, bruised egos and serious forearm pump but they all made it…one guy had been riding 4 weeks, total, EVER!

He’s in the middle with a huge smile on his face, well done Chris

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what goes up must come down…

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After all, that climbing life was getting easy until Dusty took the guys on a very unassuming trail, here 37.912305, -107.696426 that has a climb of maybe 20 feet but steep and in the rain, it took its toll and Mosko bags were getting tested to their limits (again) @Sideoff

For those of you who may be wondering, as there seemed a little concern for her where we would be riding Egle completed the course in its entirety and was one of the only riders not to drop their bike in training or in the real world, she can ride, she can really ride…so if you are a guy who uses the phrase “ride like a girl”, in this case, it means you are one hell of a rider….Dusty, agreed?

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For us, project completed, photos taken, interviews done we headed back to Moab to resume our journey down my favorite ‘view’ Ophir

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We will resume the dirt and TAT from here

Amazing Views and Long Drops

what do you do in Moab?

  1. – go ride
  2. – get hot
  3. – drink a lot of water
  4. – take loads of photos

let’s have a look at #4, not much to say in this post, just fun to watch Egle’s reaction as we rode around the red rocks, down Shafer, over muscleman, back thru potash and looking for climbers by the Colorado…

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pano…click it

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an uncropped pano to click made up of 31 shots

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Charley Boorman influenced her to do this…not me!

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They’re up there somewhere…

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