While we were trying to come up with an alternative way to get to Santiago now we knew there was no chance of a train, a guy comes up to us and had seen me towing Egle into town.
“Would you like me to arrange a truck for you where do you need to go?”
“We’re headed to Santiago.”
He pulls out a cell phone and makes a call, wanders off while he’s talking, then comes back when he’s done.
“Any luck?” I ask him
“My friend said he’ll call back in 20 minutes, he thinks he can take you.”
“Great.” We sit down and wait, as we’re waiting, our ‘fixer’ is talking to another guy who was watching the whole thing taking place. and he comes over.
“Whats wrong with the motorcycle?”
“Clutch plates, we need new ones.”
“What kind of motorcycle is it?”
“Suzuki.”
“Have you been to the Suzuki dealer?”
“Seriously there’s a Suzuki dealer here!”
“Yes.” He then gives me directions and tells me about 2km away, just a few turns and easy to find.
I take off and ride up and down every street he told me to, and a lot more, I see nothing, not even a building that could hold motorcycles, so I come back.
All the time I’d been gone Egle has been surrounded answering all the normal questions and watching the world go by, everybody is super friendly trying to come up with solutions but to no avail.
I tell the guy who had said there was a Suzuki dealer I couldn’t find it, another guy in a bicycle taxi said he knows where it is, he takes off and I follow, we go down all the streets I did a few minutes before and stop outside a house. “It was here, but now it’s gone!”
A man comes out to confirm its gone, I really doubt it was here at all or at least in the sense we understand a motorcycle shop to look like, he tells us where the best motorcycle mechanic in the city is, we take off…
A lot of pedaling for him and a few minutes later we are outside a house with an alleyway, names are getting shouted to get someone to come out
It was obviously going to be a no go, I was hoping Cubans would have a miraculous fix and get us riding again, nope.
I returned and let Egle know what had happened, in a word…nothing!
We sat and had a coconut from a young guy who just pulled up where we were sitting, right next to a shooting range with air rifles.
We paid him then handed up a few extra pesos we had in coins, it was the equivalent of about 30 coconuts. The boy was a teenager, he looked at the money and with pure Cuban honesty told us it was wrong and too much and tried to hand it back.
We told him it was a ‘propina’ – a tip, he smiled and became a little kid. He now had extra money, what would he do with it?
Refreshed and happy, but still stranded, we look around and our guy who had a friend who was getting a car had gone, vanished.
We decided it was time for us to do the same, I looked at the GPS, Santiago was 140km away and mostly flat, the sun was shining.
We’d towed around 100km already, what the hell lets do it some more, we’d become very efficient at towing averaging around 70kph on the flat ground heading to Bayamo. I knew the road back to Santiago, I’d ridden sections of it before, maybe half was freeway so the best road surface Cuba could offer.
25km out of Bayamo the rainy season started, obviously we thought it was just rain and it would pass, how wrong we were.
The remainder of the day saw us stopping in bus stops with the locals because the rain was so heavy we literally couldn’t see anything. Add to this Cuban roads are treacherous when wet, and there is no drainage so water just sits there.
Little towns flooded in minutes, hiding massive potholes and rocks under red muddy water.
It was ‘fun!’
We arrived in Santiago in the late afternoon; we had two days to get there and did it in one. Did we just complete the longest DR to DR tow in history, we didn’t know and we didn’t care. I took us to a Casa I knew that had a garage and planned to meet the Stahlratte the next day.
It was time for the last meal in Cuba and few celebratory beers, we found a nice restaurant and spent our last Cuban money looking down on the city we thought we never see.
After dinner walking back, we bump into Simon and Lisa, they told us they had been to the Stahlratte already to confirm the location and were told we had to be there at 8 am sharp in the morning as an official was coming to check the bikes out of Cuba.
The following morning we towed another 10km to the Stahlratte where it was docked in a marina on the outskirts of the city. The authorities had canceled and told us to come to the office on Monday morning, it was Saturday!
Simon and Lisa were sitting there and I felt for them, they could have had two more days riding, we couldn’t but maybe we could’ve waited for that train.
Monday rolled around and we made a call to see if we could just bring photos of Egle’s bike to check it out, “no it must come here” was the response. So more towing into the second largest city in Cuba at 8 am on a Monday morning. Where was the motor vehicle department, on the far side of the city of course, close to where we had been staying!
We towed thru the city, any other country it would have been a problem, but this is Cuba, rush hour traffic basically doesn’t exist so it was easy. Less than 1km from our destination the tow rope snapped, we knotted it but 500 meters later it snapped again, it had rotted and with all the moisture and strain we had put on it for about 240km, I’m not surprised.
We improvised, linking to cable locks together, they obviously have zero give but it got us there. We did the checkout and said goodbye to all our Cuban documentation and towed back to the Stahratte.
We calculated I had towed Egle 264.8km across southern Cuba. Once the four bikes were on board we pulled away from the side and Ludwig set a course for Jamaica just one day sailing away.
How to escape from Cuba
I’d been to Jamaica, a LOT, like 50 times a lot for work over the years, it was not a high priority for me on this trip, most people that travel to Jamaica only see a very small part of it, usually from the airport to a resort that they never need to leave until the return back to the airport, For others who do travel around they find its kind of dirty, unfriendly in places and expensive in the places you’d want to stay, and you can’t walk for more than 5 minutes without being offered drugs – $80 a night in an Airbnb in Kingston in a residential area near basically nothing interesting.
Cuba was the main point of the trip southbound and not having to ride thru CA for the 4th time which turned out very lucky with the Nicaragua situation happening, and eruptions in Guatemala
Ludwig had sent bikes docs over to the Jamaican authorities more than a few weeks earlier as he’d been told there was no reason we couldn’t take our bikes off and ride around for a week, we honestly weren’t holding our breath on riding there, we never heard a thing about it until we arrived. The simple response from the authorities we got was – “it looked like a lot of work so we didn’t bother.” A typical Jamaican response to a lot of things sadly.
On arrival, the whole trip dynamic changed dramatically in a blink of an eye, if you follow 2ridetheworld/ Simon and Lisa you will know exactly what I am talking about if not click HEREbut not if you are eating, hate the sight of blood or small kids are looking!!!
For our remaining time, we didn’t take a week to sightsee the island, we took the whole week to help and assist Simon and Lisa, Lisa mainly in any way they needed it, saw the inside of numerous hospitals, medical facilities and met some amazing doctors. Chased an ambulance from one side of the island to the other thru the Blue Mountains in a rental car with three brakes and bald tires…didn’t even get a photo of the pile of crap!!!
On the return drive from Kingston, we drove back around the eastern tip of the island to avoid the Blue Mountains that had had a week of solid rain. We saw a little coastal scenery, but not much
Back at the Stahlratte in Port Antonio we really had no idea of the area it was anchored as we’d left so quickly on arrival, we were right next to Navy Island, once bought and owned by Errol Flynn or some say he won in a game of poker.
He used to moor his yacht there and hold outrageous parties but never built a house as many people think, good write up here
This is all that remains of one of the original docks, the Island has changed hands a few times but is now back in the ownership of the Jamaican Govt.
A few hours after returning we set sail for Providencia, a tiny dot on the map about 3 days sail from Jamaica where Simon and Lisa had decided to stay for obvious reasons.
The sail out of the small bay from Errol Flynn Harbor past the Folly Lighthouse is a pretty one
As soon as we rounded the corner where Captain Blythe did numerous times the seas rose and the Stahlratte was at full sail and we had three days of pitching and rolling to go
Providencia, not much to see or do unless you are a diver, the rainy season was in full force, we were on the island for 7 days, personally, I think this is a major misjudgment by the Stahlratte. The Island is good for 2-3 days tops, its 17.3km around, moped rental is $25 a day for a moped that most wouldn’t want to get on.
The remaining time could have been spent in Cuba a lot better, cheaper and drier, with friendlier people enjoying more of an island that you could ride around (not us of course ) and what the major expense was for in the first place, hopefully, they change it for future travelers as Cuba needs as much time as possible.
TBH, Cuba direct to Panama would be a better choice and would give an extra TWO WEEKS in Cuba. Ludwig/ Stefan?
So what did we see in Providencia, well about 20 minutes of blue sky…this
and the rest of the time this for almost every minute of daylight for 7 days, during short breaks we ran to the store to buy food which is expensive as EVERYTHING is imported, no real chance of riding or walking anywhere…for us Providencia was a total bust and a room was $55 a night!!!
Leaving the sanctity of ‘our beach house’ we head back out and hit the dirt, almost immediately riding thru a plantain plantation
This guy working the ox was super friendly but you have to feel for him as a worker in the middle of nowhere, he is about as far as you can be from Havana he’s probably earning around $15 a month. As the rest of Cuba is slowly finding out how to make money and a definite middle class is rising will he be doing this for the rest of his life completely unaware of the changes that are happening?
A few miles later we pass the first village, small but original could this be where he lives?
On the South Coast, it is impossible to ride dirt all the way along because there is something really big right in the way
Once past the base and Santiago the road improves, not in quality but in scenery
A few miles later the pavement is gone, the sea has taken the land back and you get to ride one of the most stunning beachfront tracks imaginable
we ride for the remainder of the day and end up in a little settlement called Pilon, chatting with the man that owns the house he is intrigued which way we plan to ride to get back to Santiago to meet the Stahlratte in 3 days.
I explain we have two choices from him, to carry on west then north and head to Manzanillo then Bayamo then Santiago on mostly paved roads or my preferred route to backtrack east a few km’s and hit the dirt road thru the National park.
He sat there amazed that I even knew that road existed and that it could take us to Bayamo. ***If you look on google maps it doesn’t show until you click to satellite view then it shows up.
He smiled, “you probably don’t know that nobody uses that road anymore, it has river crossings and gets remote…but it’d be fun on those bikes unless it rains tonight.”
It rained all night long, torrential rain!
We got up in the morning, he asked “pavement or glory?’
Glory!!!
We set off, the sky was blue and it had been for hours, humidity was close to 100%, a few km in we rounded a corner to see a hill that was steep, nothing difficult but it looked like a farmer had laid new dirt all the way up the hill and it was deep soup.
I ran at with speed and got to the top, albeit just, with the back wheel slipping and sliding everywhere, this photo does it no justice at all taken with a point and shoot, you can just make out my rear wheel sinking and I was only about 5% of the way up the hill
the good part was around the corner…
I tell Egle over the intercom when she gets around the corner to WOT it and hold on, she comes roaring by me at speed shouting “this is going to be a fun day”
A few km later we have our first river crossing, no issues, the next corner is another river crossing, I run thru it ok, a few meters from crossing Egle hit a boulder and goes down, we rescue the bike and then empty our boots of water. As we are doing the torrential rain starts but luckily in a few minutes its over. We look at each other, not like it was really a question we nod at each other and carry on.
Less than a km later we have our next river crossing, but this one isn’t a crossing, in the photo, I would be riding toward you (you can see my exit tracks) and the entry starts around the corner about 50 meters so let’s call it a river road. It’s not more than a foot deep at any point but because of the rain its silt and the bike is sinking, she is giving me a push in spots where I sink and I plow thru to the other side.
We both walk back for her bike and she gets thru, but not 50 meters further and we have to cross the river again so I tell he to keep riding first, she motors thru but on exit, her rear wheel sinks a little and she throttles it and the clutch fails. I help her push the bike out to a flat spot, go and get mine.
We find shade from the now blistering sun and lay the bike on its side, I grab my tool bag from my bike and open it. Egle is there with the camera taking a few shots when all she can hear me saying is “fuck, fuck, FUCK!”
She thinks initially somehow I hurt myself grabbing my tools…its worse than that!
When I was in Camaguey doing the last clutch plate fix in a hurry to get out of the garage/ sauna I’d left half my tools there, and the good half, the ones I needed to open up the side case.
If you know a right side of a DR you need sockets to get at a couple of the bolts that are set deep, all I have left is closed end wrenches. I can do a clutch swap on a DR in about 15 minutes and be riding again, not this time, two hours later I am still trying to get the last bolt out.
I do a little origami with a wrench to finally make it fit and i’m in, hoping for a similar situation as before and a quick scuff and put it all back together
NOPE!!!
This is what I find
for those of you not familiar with the inside of a clutch pack, the plate on the left is a friction plate, its supposed to look like the one next to it, but all the friction material is gone, chunks of it are all over the open side of the motor…I say today’s favorite word – FUCK!
I try a little magic and button it up and hope for the best.
There was a small shack a ways back Egle goes to speak to the people, hopefully.
She returns as I’m putting the bike back on its wheels. She asked their opinion to carry on or to go back, the lady in the shack tells her to carry on. “She said there are two very small water crossings a little uphill and then its pavement and lots and lots of downhill to Bayamo.
Then the sky goes black and torrential rain starts, this time it’s not going to stop anytime soon
We swap bikes so I can ‘feel’ the clutch and we ride and it’s working, not great, but working, if I get to third it all seems good and no slipping, I ride a little crazy and we round a corner and here is the first river crossing, its small we race thru.
A few hundred meters and another, again we race thru it…cool now where’s this little hill?
Another corner another river crossing, we assure each other over the intercom “maybe she meant three not two”. Another corner another river crossing, this happens a lot we lose count but think we went thru another 13 river crossings all shallow so no real issues, but river crossings none the less.
Rounding the next corner there is the hill, and it is huge, I WOT the bike and leave Egle in the distance, it gets steeper and steeper I have to drop gears as I’m losing speed, I can feel the clutch slipping a little, then more and more, I’m in second and the engine just races as I slow to a stop…its done
I don’t know if it was 100 degrees or more, but it sure as hell was close to 100% humidity as I sat there on Egle’s bike looking up a crazy steep hill. I got off and got on my bike and rode up it for a few km, when I stopped the bike with just the front brake the bike started sliding backward, it was steep, actually steeper than I thought.
Screw it go a little further, I was on concrete and rode it until it ended, then I hit brown, not red dirt and rode another km or so, the hill kept going but I turned back. I slowed and turned my bike around at the last corner where I could see hers and walked down.
We fired the bike up, put it in gear and used what remnants were left of the clutch with me on the controls walking on the left and Egle pushing from behind moved in upward around 100 meters then we both nearly had a heart attack.
We had left Pilon around 9.30, at a guess, it was around midday, scorching sun beating down, I think we would have preferred rain.
Rinse and repeat the above scenario dozens of times until we got her bike from that ribbon of concrete to where the dirt started. We estimate we pushed her bike around 7km uphill. The dirt wasn’t the end it was just the end of the steepest part.
Was this the steepest hill in Cuba, I honestly think it was. We had spent a few weeks in Taxco, Mexico a few months before and both of us could only remember one hill as steep as this, so if you’ve been to Taxco you’ll get it. By the time we reached the flat ground at the top, it was after 6 pm (IIRC) it had taken us 8 hours to go a little less than 18km.
Thru the whole ordeal, we had taken just ONE PHOTO…this with a p&s, at this point we might have been 1/10th of the way up.
At the top we looked down into the valley where we’d been that morning, now we realized why it took so long to get his high, there was no way a straight road could be made in these hills, the road had been spiraling these hills
I always carry a tow strap, I pulled it out and so it began, hoping it wouldn’t be the longest DR to DR tow in history! We knew there was as a settlement in about 20km or so and we knew it was mostly up and down but no major gradients, we set off…slowly.
This is where the tow began heading to Bayamo, the hotel was somewhere between the 25 and 50 markers
We reached the small settlement just as the sun was setting, normally people would be running at you to help you find a Casa Particular…nothing. We flagged down an empty taxi to ask if there were Casa’s here or maybe a hotel? We explained our situation and hoped for some Cuban kindness.
What we were told is Bayamo was around 70-80km away, too far, but there was a Hotel in about 10-15km, he offered to put Egle’s bike in the back of his taxi for $20. This wasn’t the hospitable Cuba we knew, we declined and I towed her into the oncoming darkness. The rain began to fall, and it came down like a monsoon, we just laughed, could this day get any worse.
Eventually, we found the hotel after asking a few locals in the darkness if we were close, the place that didn’t exist on our maps.
We didn’t like the idea of a Hotel, could it be for rich tourists, would it be way out of our price range? We asked the guy behind the check-in desk not for a room but if there was a Casa close by, I think we were delirious and dehydrated, we looked like shit and probably didn’t smell too good either.
He was so nice, he smiled, “Casas are expensive, why don’t you stay here I can give you a villa for $20″…we smiled for the first time since 10 am. Then he asked, “would you like me to keep the restaurant open for you?”
“Yes please!”
“You have to go now because it closes in 5 minutes, I will call and tell them you are coming and to stay open.”
“Can we shower and change first?”
“No!” he smiled, “it’s Ok.”
We walked up to the restaurant after leaving all our gear in the lobby, there were a few people in there, we sat as far away as we could. We got the menu and looked at each other and smiled again. We were in a 5-star hotel for Cubans, not for tourists. We drank beer lots of beer, ate a lot really good food and got a bill for $3…why had we been staying Casas if we could have done this, why hadn’t anybody told us.
We finished and went back to the lobby, the hotel manager had called a friend who could take Egle and her bike to Bayamo where there was a train station with regular service to Santiago where the Stahlratte was waiting for us to arrive in 48 hours.
A tractor pulled up, a brand new tractor with a trailer, he told us, “no problem 50CUC ($50) to Bayamo.” We knew it was around 70km away it seemed a little excessive, we tried to bargain a little he wouldn’t budge. This part of Cuba understood capitalism for sure.
We refused and went to our room. Waking in the morning to clear blue skies and a nice flat good condition road to Bayamo. The tractor driver passed us and waved, his tractor was full, but no trailer attached.
By the time we arrived in Bayamo, it was around noon we’d passed thru little villages who residents were familiar with being in a tractor-pulled trailer
and being threatened with death unless they were Socialist
While the tractors were making real money doubling up as taxis, other not so well off farmers were still using ox in rice fields in knee deep in water
In the middle of Bayamo is the train station, I waited with the bikes and a gathering crowd, Egle went inside. 5 minutes later she appeared shaking her head, “there’s supposed to be a train in one hour to Santiago and we can put the bike on it.”
I respond, “great, why are you shaking your head.”
“No, a second guy came up as I was being told this and said that trains been canceled.”
“So when’s the next one?”
“Tomorrow, but…”
“Tomorrow’s good, what’s the but?”
“It hasn’t been confirmed if they ‘want’ to run it!”
“Who’s they?”
“Havana.”
“Now what do we do?” She asked me
“Plan B!”
“What’s plan B?”
“Don’t know never thought I’d need one…give me a minute.”
it’s more of visual than anything, if I was solo I wouldn’t have come back, it just one of those places to me once you’ve seen it, you’ve seen it. But once you are there you just cannot stop taking photos.
We walked 25km in one day!!!!
We stayed a little out of town so we could have secure parking, every American car here is a taxi so no problem getting a ride the 4km into town…except, first car we stopped wanted $10 per person, next one $12 pp and the next $22 per person, for 4km or 2 1/2 miles. We laughed at him, his response “you’re from a first world country, you can afford it, that’s nothing to you.”
This will be the downfall of Cuban tourism if it continues, locals in some areas actually have no perception of the amount of money tourists have to spend or what the average person can afford, rich Russians and Germans just pay so they can say they’ve had the experience.
A local standing close by told us to catch the bus, “its better, it costs 5 CUP (20 cents US) and it has air conditioning, those cars don’t.” We followed the advice and were in central Havana a few minutes later
The city…
the main thing you’d notice if you’d never been to Havana before is how much of the city is dilapidated and how you find yourself saying “how do people live here?” Short answer, they have no choice, you feel like you are walking thru a war zone in some areas away from the main tourist sections.
It is a very safe place though, a local sitting in his doorway talks to us as we walk by, “you are safe here, very safe. 2 million live here and 1 million are police, go anywhere you want, don’t worry!”
What he means is everybody is watching everybody, the police/ government are firmly in control and penalties are harsh for locals who cross the line, if you see something and don’t report it then you are in serious trouble too. Cuba could be one of the safest places you could ever travel too.
The city has a certain beauty in its run-down state, the lack of vehicles and the pure volume of people in the streets trying to catch a cool breeze or just sitting talking.
looking up at a building that in the western world you expect to be boarded up waiting for the demolition team to arrive, someone has built a home in the rubble and made a small place for themselves to live
Banksy also came here a few years ago and his art style created a certain alternative influence and if you look closely you may find some examples in the most unusual places and a thing I never saw last time graffiti, nothing major but its creeping in, subtly and slowly for sure
1984 anyone?
Cars and people…
This is the place where you will see the most of both
There’s been some progress in expanding access to personal transportation in Cuba, but it has been halting. In 2014 the government abolished a system that required citizens to attain a permit to buy a car and loosened restrictions on new car imports. The new system fell flat when markups equating to four to five times the base price left supposedly cheap cars, like a Peugeot hatchback, with an astronomical price of $85,000 U.S. In a country where a good state job pays $20 a month, a new car would not be a realistic goal within 100 lifetimes of saving for most Cubans.
but they are not what they seem, you can pay upwards of $30 per hour to be driven around in one on a private tour of the city. On the outside its an American car, but ask the owner to lift up the hood and most of the time not one American part to be seen.
I asked a guy how parts were to find for his motor and he lifted the hood, “easy, Toyota Hilux motor, Russian radiator, Chinese electrics, euro plumbing and a few odd parts from Venezuela and Brazil, because I want it to sound right.” He continued…”some people have the more beat up cars, the ones you see in the suburbs and smaller towns, they run diesel motors, usually Perkins or old Russian diesel because they are cheap and fuel instead of $1.20 a liter its 80cents.”
Lines of convertibles sit and wait for customers but tourism is down this year and the use of rental cars is up, and new taxi’s with airconditioning are nowhere, look behind those ragtops and you can see yellow, lots of yellow – they are all Ladas from Russia.
Convertibles are the car to have though, an unknowing eye would be happy to see so many but if you know what to look for most of these cars started life as hardtops
Every single car you see in Cuba is a taxi, maybe not by personal business but stand at the side of the road and hold out some cash and someone will stop and take your money for a ride, otherwise how can you afford to drive a car with fuel at around $3.50 a gallon and the average monthly salary at $20…the numbers don’t work
This is all most Americans regardless how rich they are could afford for an American car here, a remade license plate…why? These ars are basically fakes if the Cuban/ US market suddenly opened and an American could come and buy a car here they wouldn’t. Go back up and click that link to the BBC, ten-year-old Peugeots go for $85k and up, a 1991 Lada will costs $20k and up for a car in most countries where it would have crushed years back or if it was still on the road in Europe it would be worth 500 euros if the owner was lucky.
So what does that put the value of a 50’s American car at, realistically guessing because the owners won’t tell you somewhere in excess of $150,000? Would you now go and want to buy one knowing it had a Toyota motor and Chinese running gear when you could go to Barratt Jackson and get a numbers matching low mileage car for a third of the price…probably not!
The people…
Havana is full, packed, splitting at the seams, people are everywhere but there is a lot of sitting around. There is minimal work and lots of free time, as most basics that you might take for granted are available for people here…like air conditioning. So sitting in your doorway is a thing here, just watching the world go by
People are friendly, very friendly and want to talk, they have nothing but time so if you do get into a conversation expect to be there for a while. When you do get deeper into a conversation you’ll find most Cubans have a dark sense of humor.
When you look at the old people here you wonder how they feel, they lived thru the whole regime and now struggle to survive making a few pennies where they can, fat people just don’t exist in Cuba to be fat you have to be rich one guy said, “I’m not rich enough to be fat!”
but back to the sitting in doorways, its a way to make money for some, the Cubans have an iconic look and know it so some will ask you for a little money for taking that shot
This lady was asking for $20 for a photo with her and the young guys paid to get that shot, I said no and she smiled and said how about a $1…I moved on.
Police are few and far between in Havana but as I said before you are safe very safe
Fidel was alive last time I was here and I doubt this guy would not have dared to do what he is doing and asking for money just a few years back, getting money from tourists and telling them he was Fidels long lost brother and then selling Rd Star Communists hats to the young people who think communism is cool but have zero idea what communism really is they just hate capitalism to be edgy.
The most amazing person we met was Haydee
Egle wanted a coffee so we stopped in this ladies doorway she sold coffee for 1 peso/ 4 cents, and we started talking, she asked why did we come and Egle was telling her she’s a writer, she said so am I, she asked where we were from Egle told her Lithuania and almost everyone we meet has no clue where Lithuania is she did, she started talking Russian. “I lived in Bulgaria for seven years when Lithuania was part of Russia”, then she broke into Bulgarian and started singing.
We talked about Fidel and Che, she told us they were great and then asked us inside…
Once inside the tone changed she told us she had to say that, who knows who was listening, Fidel and Che were bad people and bad for the country. “I grew up in a rich family, my parents had a big house and I was taken to school in a chauffeur driven car, they took our house our cars and murdered my parents. We asked her why she came back…” have you been to Bulgaria? They don’t have sun!”
We never found out how she got the McDonalds apron….
and a little movie with a story riding out of Viñales on a dirt road 1km from the town
We talk a little more about Haydee as well –
you know when you have one of those crazy days riding when at the end of it you wish you had a full on film crew and drones following you ’cause when you finally stopped it seemed like it couldn’t be real and of course you forgot to take photos at the most opportune times…well the next two days were kind of like this!
We stop for one last look at Havana at the Mirador, and of course, are besieged by local taxi drivers, they are funny, make remarks like; “I start my world travels next years, just need to find my passport!”
to start the day a little urban enduro at the Pan American Stadium, the track last time I was here was literally falling apart, but still being used. The main building makes it look derelict, kind of like a Cuban version of Buzludzha, Bulgaria (back on page 72, in case you missed it)
This was a quick snap with the p&s as they were running towards us to tell us to get out
Back outside no one is around and we ride the grounds, past the fountains with all the statues of things Cubans are good at, volleyball, boxing, sprinting etc.
The is a raised section where you can get another shot of Che at the end of the stadium, but you have to ride up some steps, I don’t think about it but hear Egle over the intercom with a little doubt in her voice.
I tell her blip the throttle as she approaches to loft the front wheel and to keep a steady handful of throttle with her weight slightly forward until the back wheel is over the top step, so not to wheelie too much. She does it and as I see her reach the top I pull away and she vanishes, I look back and she going back down and then is going up and down the steps like a little kid…” this is fun!”
Pulling out we head towards Varadero for the night, this is the main tourist area but still, along the way, there are reminders of exactly where you are
The rest of the day is nothing special, its just a stop over for the crazy day we have planned tomorrow but in Varadero, one conversation did really surprise us.
We went looking for a Casa (place to stay) and were being told prices around $40, $50 and $60 per night, we excused ourselves as this is too much and there are hundreds, $30 is the max. At one house a lady tells us $30 we smile and say ok, she then tells us two-night minimum, we only want one night. its late in the afternoon and the whole peninsula is dead, almost every Casa is empty, we tell her this. “2 nights minimum”, she barks. We turn and leave and literally walk next door and get a place for $25.
This was the first and only time I have had a Cuban refuse money, she watched us hand over money to her neighbor, times are changing her. We went to grab some food and then sat outside for the rest of the night until it was time to go to bed, no one else knocked on her door.
To put this in perspective the $30 she turned down was a month or more wages for her less than a decade ago, now it’s not enough…think about that.
Somewhere near a little town called surprisingly George Washington
We hit dirt our plan is to be in Trinidad early afternoon it’s around 300km from Varadero but the first 150km was mostly pavement and done in a couple of hours, so 150km left with around 6 hours to spare…ever had that thought?
It starts with mild stuff, really hard packed so you can keep a good speed
The hard pack turns to soft pack and then to mud, the kind that you think is a couple of inches deep but when you go in you are up to your axles, that kind of shit, we pick our way around the outside and ride thru kilometer after kilometer of this stuff
Eventually finding higher ground we come out to a clearing, and multiple tracks, we try them all, they all lead to dead ends, one ends up in a river, I wade the river and take what looks like a track a ways down, it just peters out to nothing and bush that I’d need a very sharp machete to get thru
Eventually finding a track that seems well used we ride it for about an hour and end up at a bridge that’s collapsed and the concrete has split into sharp rocks but in a way that I don’t think I could get over on a trials bike, everywhere else we can see has banks that are over 10 feet high. Its late in the day, around 40c/ 104f and maybe 90% humidity and we’re almost out of water, this could be our camp spot for the night.
Right until a guy on a horse appears out of nowhere, his horse really struggles to cross the river confirming what I thought, he directs us up a track and tells us there is another bridge a few kilometers downstream, and then takes off.
We go looking…
the track leads us into a field, with produce everywhere as far as the eye can see, the river is to our right and we can see for a good distance and no bridge in sight, then we hear a voice its the horse guy and another man. He shouts, “my dads coming!”
This is good as we have got as far as we can go and now are not looking forward to an at least a 50km backtrack.
Then a man on a white horse appears, “don’t ride over my pumpkins, follow me.” (no montes sobre mis calabazas, sígueme)
We do as we’re told, when he raises his hand for us to so we stop, he walks the horse up and down between the crops until he’s happy. “This one”/ éste
****Screen grab
He leads us along even when we find a track he won’t let us ride on until we are off his land. Eventually we find ‘the bridge’ and ride over and meet his son.
They are happy to see us but somewhat confused why we are there, and how we got there, I explain then he explains the best way to ‘here’ but it’s from the opposite direction! Then he asks again why we are here, we explain we are just having fun and exploring and looking to find places in the middle of nowhere…they smile and laugh
“encontraste”/ you found it
We take his advice on how to get out of where we are and we are on our way, we find our way to a track that a few vehicles have used
Then back to red dirt
Eventually hitting pavement again as we enter Parque Natural Topes de Collantes and the ride down to Trinidad, we stop to take in the view
eventually making it and stopping at a place I knew, I rang the bell and the door opened, the owner Amardo, looked at me, surprised but the all he could get out was “amigo” and hugged me and kept saying “amigo, amigo, amigo”
Trinidad is a great place to photograph in some areas it screams for black and white which in the past some of you said you didn’t like…well tough.you’re getting some.
It’s as close as you can get to the original look of how Cuba used to be, beautiful cobbled streets, picturesque houses and characters everywhere.
Ok, back in the world of technicolor…
Trinidad was founded on December 23, 1514, it is one of the best-preserved cities in the Caribbean from the time when the sugar trade was the main industry in the region, its streets are very colorful
today its main industry is tourism and tobacco farming, but it is a great place to just sit and watch the world go by
There are some great artists in this town, two of my favorites by the detail and use of color, not necessarily by subject
Che is somewhat of a touchy subject, yes his image is everywhere and one of the most recognized in the world after the Mona Lisa. He is certainly not the cool guy the hipsters think he was, yes he was a doctor but also a mass murdering POS, so again I only like this image for its use of color NOT subject matter
We kind of invited ourselves to dinner, this guy looked like he invited this bird who didn’t want to come
We wanted something very simple very traditional, Ropa Vieja. This dish is everywhere but it has so many forms so Egle asked if she could help make it and write a story about it and the process. Our guide for this culinary delight was 87-year-old Josiphina, Amado’s mother. She was nice enough to write down ‘her recipe’ and a slight variation on the classic.
She even signed it for us, what amazing hand writing from an amazing lady, and no you can’t have a copy!
…but you can see it and almost smell and taste it…yum
Out of Trinidad, we get back to the dirt, there’s plenty of it around
Some areas with better traction than others
We are off an on dirt for most of the morning, some roads that on google earth view were dirt have now been paved since 2009 when some imagery was taken
The at lunchtime I’m overtaking a slow-moving truck on a fast paved section going up a hill, Egle follows me and all of a sudden her bike revs but won’t accelerate as normal, my quick diagnosis over the intercom…” your clutch ifs fučt!”
We pull over and I take it for a short ride and yep its done but not completely…I think I can save it but we decide to ride to Camaguey to a guy I know where I can do the work in his hotel.
We arrive in Camaguey and go straight to Nelson’s place…this is where it gets a little weird. We pull up outside and the place is closed up, police stickers on the doors and a guy sitting outside across the street is watching us. We ask him what’s happened? He just looks down at the ground shaking his head.
As we are looking at him a guy on a bicycle stops next to us and tells us he has a friend who has a place like Nelsons if we are interested to follow him, so we do. When we get to the ‘new place’ before we go inside we ask what happened to Nelson? “He’s gone, my English bad, my friends explain.”
The door opens and a couple welcomes us but before we look at the room we want to know what happened to Nelson? “A few months ago the police raided his hotel, he was selling drugs and running hookers from there. He was arrested, had a trial and sentenced to 30 years in jail. Everybody knows about Nelson, it was national news, they took everything from him and all the stuff inside the hotel…he’ll die in prison!”
I must have looked more concerned than normal, she noticed this, I told her last time I stayed there I had a photo taken with him and he had it hanging on the wall. “Yes, they showed some photos of his customers on TV”. She looked up and down the street…”come inside!”
It did all seem a little strange when I stayed there, he seemed way too rich, way to connected and everybody that saw him treated him like a Godfather…which I guess he was.
Before you all jump to conclusions, I just rented a room from him, nothing more.
We wandered into town to let the bike cool off, and I really noticed a difference in the town, last time it seemed thriving, this time it seemed to be dying, did Nelson do this, did he kill Camaguey?
We wandered back in the dark and got a little-lost walking in circles for a while and found this place a few times
Eventually finding our Casa I set to work on the bike, taking off all the parts that are in the way and getting to look at the clutch plates, they are fried and we still have about 10 days left.
I do the old drag racing trick of scuffing them up for that final burn out and run and put it all together and hope for the best for the next day, we are 350km away from the Stahlratte but that’s no help, I don’t have spares and have zero chance of finding them here….fingers crossed everybody!
Here’s a video a little behind, this is two days riding from Havana to Trinidad, it’s a long one, go grab a brew
The clutch came apart the friction discs were all glazed over, I found some sandpaper and scuff them up a little so they could absorb some oil and expand a little, the morning came around and everything was good again…for now.
It was time for a little downtime at the beach, hit a little dirt but struggled to find anything too interesting
this was us for a few days staying with a family, the grandmother owned the house and the family and their family lived in smaller houses on the same plot about 10 yards from the beach…this is what we had to struggle thru!
It was nice just to relax and wander down the beach for a day instead of riding, there was a small town a few km’s away but not much going on
Our host asked us if we had any preference for fruit with our breakfast the following morning, we asked if we could have apples instead of mango? She stood there amazed and apologized, “it’s almost impossible to get exotic fruits in Cuba and apples when they were available were way out of my reach as they are so expensive.”
“Do you get them where you are from for a good price?” she asked
“Yes, they are everywhere very common, actually so common we feed them to horses!”
She looked at us horrified that animals in Europe get exotic fruits while Cubans get virtually no choice, “there’s a little fruit market up the road today, why don’t you go and see what they have, sometimes there are surprises.”
We headed off a little embarrassed and sad at the same time, we found the ‘fruit market’. It was only four small stalls, with a very sad collection of fruit and veg, we thought maybe we had missed the good stuff, but one of the vendors said this was basically it.
This was in the same area as the market…but no one there spoke a word of English, why have the writing in English, we never found out why?
I was taking this photo and the taxi owner of that 55 Belair walked over and said, “you see how its wrong?” We looked and didn’t spot the mistake…do you see it?
He explained, “this was a gift from a country, don’t remember who, they gave it to us after a hurricane a few years back hit here as a sign of good will…look at Cuba! It’s wrong, Cuba goes from northwest pointing to the southeast, they have it wrong! After the ceremony and everyone left a few days later it was rolled over here and its been here ever since.”
He walked off, not saying who the ‘who’ that gave it was, we stood there staring trying to remember how Cuba looked on a map…and this guy was looking at us wondering why we were invading his space
The following morning we said our goodbyes and headed further down the coast to Baracoa, around 50km out of town we find a fruit and veg stall that had ten times that the selection that the ‘market’ did the day before, in a town. Cuba is a land of extremes for the people
Hee’s the video to go with that
Out of Guardalvaca you can pretty much huge the coast as you head to Baracoa, along the way is Moa, a small town and the start of some major oil refineries and what has been considered Cubas worse road. Well with that in mind and knowing that the last 75km could be actual hell if we catch a rain storm we ride pavement beforehand. We get to Moa quickly in less than 3 hours and pass the town.
Thru the intercom I’m warning Egle that anytime now the road is going to get bad, really bad, potholes deeper than the bikes, slick mud, loose rock, deep sand etc. nothing, none of it, they’d worked on the road in the last two years, nothing that great just some grading so it was an easy ride.
We stopped in at one of the refineries thinking it was closed down, but it wasn’t, we found this out as we’re taking a photo armed guards are running out shouting, “no photos!” It only a statue of Che, we weren’t stealing state secrets, at least I don’t think we were
In the background you can see whats left of an apartment block, that’s what made us think it was abandoned
heading to Baracoa you go thru one of the last remaining areas of Taíno people who were one of the indigenous tribes who originally lived on the island before the Spanish came. If you think Cubans are poor then seeing how Taino’s live is a lot worse. A sad area to ride thru for sure with less farming and industry the closer you get to Baracoa.
A Taino cemetery
Strange rock formations coming to a small town that looks like the sea carved the curve in the rocks but the sea was hundreds of meters to the left
The road stays close to the water the whole way and a man was walking his horse down to let it cool off after a hot day working in the sun
A lot of the land here just isn’t workable unless you are a coconut farmer
Egle stopped to talk to a farmer about his ox and why they are used, his answer – “they are smart and easy to train and can live and work for a long, long time.”
Baracoa is a municipality and city in Guantánamo Province near the eastern tip of Cuba. It was visited by Admiral Christopher Columbus on November 27, 1492 so you would think, great lots to see and do…yeah, nah, it has almost nothing to see and do so we moved on.
Our plan was to get back on more dirt, before coming here I’d found a track that looked like it would go to the very eastern point of the island, not far out of Baracoa you hit the dirt
this was the planned route
Somewhere around the 25/50km mark, it was getting redder, and bone dry, loads of grip and loads of fun
We made this hill climb that is way steeper than it looks, the locals watched amazed that we would attempt it and then informed us there’s an easier road off to the right as this has only been used for foot traffic for years, haha!
Houses became less and less frequent and the looks we got, they seemed more confused than intrigued. Stopping for a break…
A guy on a bicycle stops next to us and asks where we’re going, we tell him Faro Punta de Maisí and he says, “no!” and starts waving his finger at us and tells us to go all the way around…you can see him here at 0.14 seconds
We explain we can ride virtually anywhere, he still says no, so we ask why…”there’s a landslide, boulders from football size to car size for over 50 meters, you have to go round, so sorry.”
So we double back on the red dirt and eventually come out on a paved road with no traffic, its a road barely used anymore as a newer shorter more direct one has been built, coming round a corner this is our view
if you zoom into the above picture (by clicking it), you can see there is a track along the coast, an old coast road…that’s what I was trying to get to, we would have been riding towards us, but…denied!
We get down to the water and the track is there but has a gate leading out to the large antenna you see, and no go around, we would have been screwed
A little riding near the beach leads us thru a few tiny settlements and we had had a suggestion for what we were told was a small town called Tortuguilla
Well, Tortuguilla didn’t turn out to be a town just a few houses near the beach, we stopped at one, a brand new place with a casa sign and asked how much?
“$25.”
“For a room?” We asked…
“No, for the whole house.” Was the reply.
“We’ll take it, where can we get food?”
“I’m a chef, I can cook for you $7 each, would you like fish, chicken, steak or pork?”
We ended up staying two days and had our own beach shared with the family next door
It was a simple thing, ride from Antigua, GTA to Isla Mujeres, MX get on the Stahlratte and sail to Cuba (again) and find some unique locations to ride – primarily dirt. Sounds easy when I put it in one sentence, the reality was a little different.
The ride and border crossing back into MX were simple enough, albeit very very long as border officials seemed to want to do everything by the book as we were the only traffic that day. A quick stop at the border into Belize (but not entering) was where we canceled our TVIP’s as it is genuinely a PITA to do it in the Cancun area we were told. Turns out it would have been simple, more on that later.
Then a day later a ride to Playa del Carmen where a friend had told us he had a 2 bed apartment for us to use for however long we wanted prior to sailing, we opted for around 10 days, Egle had 32 articles to write for numerous worldwide publications, no mean feat and she completed it with a day to spare.
A few days after canceling the TVIP’s I get one refund, not two. I send an email to the Banjercito and find out that they thought there was fraudulent activity because both bikes were paid on one card but titled in different names…seems to me this is how any couple would do their paperwork, obviously not.
We were told to go to Cancun to prove our identity.
Within an hour of getting this news from Banjercito, we get an email from the Stahlratte telling us we need to get Cuban visas as there are only a few people going it ‘would be easier’ to do it beforehand, we are given the location of the Cuban Consulate in Cancun. We figure we would kill two birds with one stone and plan an 80km ride north the following morning.
Firstly the Consulate – who knows how long that could take and we can’t enter Cuba without a visa. At the Consulate we aren’t allowed in, we tell the guy at the gate what we are doing – motos/ ship/ sail/ Cuba etc. He tells us to go to a travel agent, we explain again motos/ ship/ sail/ Cuba etc. with the emphasis on MOTOS!!! Again he said, travel agent but this time adds ‘dive shop’ then corrects himself ‘divermex’ and tells us he will bring the actual consulate out to speak with us.
We think, good maybe he’ll understand better, he tells us the exact same thing and also adds the Consulate is for visas for aid or education NOT for tourism, are we screwed and have to cancel Cuba we wonder. As he is closing the gate he says “divermex, very easy, speak English shop”…slam!!!
Luckily I had a phone connection in Mexico so we google Divermex, Cancun (21.156023, -86.823380) and it’s less than 2km away, we ride over and it is a travel agent, we go in and ask “Cuba visa?” in a doubting voice, they say “yes, take a seat, its $20 or $400pesos”.
They speak perfect English and once we have visas in hand we tell them about the TVIP problem wondering if they could make a few phone calls on our behalf, they cannot do enough to help, finding all the info we need and the various places we are supposed to go, hopefully.
Needless to say, it doesn’t go as planned, some 4 hours later we are no further ahead and we’ve been to half a dozen offices and spoken to dozens of people, and now understanding that canceling the TVIP here would have been a nightmare.
Right up to the point when someone tells us to go to another office to speak with a certain lady whose name has been mentioned a few times, we ride off back to where we’d been before a few times just a 5.5km from where we’ll need to catch the ferry to Isla Mujeres, but this time to a different office on the left side of the street that the guys on the other side didn’t know existed, 50 meters away!
We ask for her and she is behind a Banjercito desk we tell her about not getting two refunds, she checks her system and calls Banjercito CDMX and confirms the refund is processed but refuses to give us proof. All we get is ‘trust me’ the refund will be in your account in about a month!
She then asks why we didn’t do it there instead?
This will save you a lot of time and effort if you are headed to Cuba and have a TVIP and need a visa, there is an office about 5.5 km from the IM ferry terminal 21.190452, -86.807307. Its small details like this that as a rider make life easy but as a non-rider just sending an email thinking how difficult can it be
OK back to P de C and Egle gets back to writing completes the 32 articles and we leave fully packed headed for Isla Mujeres still with no TVIP refund…and meet Simon and Lisa at the ferry dock.
Bikes get loaded and the 45-minute crossing is marginally rough but rough enough for Lisa’s bike to fall over and luckily for her, her pannier saves the gas tank getting punctured on a sharp corner of the ferry just a few mm away
an overnight in IM and a last look at MX at what my eyes after more than a few beers told me was in focus…oh well, most of the time MX was a blur anyway
then it’s off to Cuba leaving Isla Mujeres in our wake
In conversation we find that Banjercito thought S&L were also committing fraud so they only received one refund as well, Egle and Lisa aren’t happy with the Banjercito service and show elegant dissatisfaction, I stole Simons photo and put my watermark on it as well
Rough seas, strong tailwinds, lots of vomit, minimal amounts of food eaten by anyone and we arrive in Cuba a day ahead of schedule as we averaged over 11 knots virtually the whole way and the Stahlrattess top speed ever is 12.6…a communal sigh of relief was heard from everyone aboard as we sailed into Cienfuegos harbor and we welcomed to Cuba
The next day the basics of importation begin, same as before all listed in this RR 2 years ago, so go back and find that if you are going. It’s easy it just takes a day to complete,
once done, I show everyone where my favorite bar is in Cienfuegos and we try and blend in…
the following day we roll out of Cienfuegos headed north…but not to Havana just yet, I just wanted to get this – “same spot, different bike” shot
here’s what all that looked like as movie…
There was one objective for Cuba this time around after having ridden around 4500km last time on primarily paved roads – this time find more dirt, lots more dirt.
Escaping Cienfuegos we headed north/ west and decided the tip of the island would be a good starting point for our ride all the way to Santiago 3 weeks later.
I picked a random small village on the map roughly halfway to the tip of the island where it seemed there was a lot of Casa Particulars, it was called Las Terrazas it turned out to be a German-dominated place and had the feel of a holiday camp, we couldn’t wait to leave, this wasn’t ‘real Cuba’, I saw nothing worthy of a photo.
The following day I had found a loop to the end of the island and coming back to stay in Viñales, let the fun begin…
I got a lot of ideas for dirt tracks from google earth literally looking for red dirt and narrow tracks that lead somewhere, further up the country there is a lot of sand, mud and bull-dust mix, and some heavy rain and its not fun to ride in ’cause you don’t how the bike will react from second to second. Remember no graded roads per se so the surface changes as there is no solid base
At the end of the land, you kind of expect something…anything, what we saw was basically nothing except fires bring in the swamps and mangroves in the distance
we turned around and point our front wheels towards Viñales
It was a nice feeling having been in this area before and knowing where to go, and knowing people. @ONandOFF had sent me a few connections in Viñales area but first I wanted to stop in say hello to the owner of a casa I used before who’s son was motorcycle crazy. We were received with amazed eyes and huge hugs. They had an opening and I couldn’t say no, they were so happy to see us.
it was great just to sit there and watch the world roll by 50’s style
At night parts of the main street are closed down to traffic and restaurants spread their tables out and salsa bands play, this is tourist Cuba, we enjoyed it but we were looking forward to the next day more
you could spend weeks if not months riding in this area, in less than 1km from the gas station were on dirt roads
This area is Mil Cumbres and the dirt in places is red RED
I found a track that ‘appeared’ to go exactly where we wanted, but narrowed every 100 meters until eventually, we were at a gate for a deserted flora foundation
Try another track…
then another…
then another….and we bumped into another local rider, he was coming to visit his ox, nothing more, but kind of amazed we would be all the way out here for ‘fun’, less than 1km the track ended again at a farm
we reroute down multiple tracks and each just ends, sometimes at a locked gate and other times at a wall of trees.
We have no option but to cut back to a paved road for a few km and have some snacks and look for another way
we get back on the dirt and use some of the farmer’s tracks between sugar canes to navigate the previously unpassable areas
Eventually hitting pavement again late afternoon around Artemisa with new designer red rims from a great days red dirt riding, as the sun was dropping we arrived at the outskirts of Havana
Before moving on to all the Cuba stuff, sorry, it will be next month as uploads to SmugMug here aren’t happening easily even with newly found wifi, so I’ll finish Mexico…
Leaving Mexico as the sunsets, not really sure when we’ll see it again so I took a quick snap of our final Mexican sunset from Isla Mujeres with the sun setting over the Yucatan
Since we’ve been in Mexico this time we rode 12,357km from tip to tip concentrating this time on the spine of Mexico meeting lots of amazingly friendly people and seeing incredible things on a daily basis.
Huge thanks to everyone we met and helped us out and who hosted us along the way
This time in Mexico was my 106th time crossing into the country, years ago I used to go there for work, sometimes twice a week, I’ve entered on foot, car, plane, bus, boat taxi and of course motorcycle.
I had a look at what I could find on gpx files (some extend a little to the US and GTA, big files) and I only have the last four visits and the files aren’t complete but to give you an idea I have seen a lot of the country in the those four visits, so imagine what this map would look like if I had the other 102 on there!
The map below is around 33,000km
We made a video for Egle’s dad who may never have the opportunity to go sailing like this, and for you guys who have that question…” what’s it really like on the Stahlratte?”
In the meantime here’s a short video of what to expect from Cuba…
leaving Antigua and the amazing hospitality of Harvey and Diane @bmwarabia and the beautiful Casa Elena where he welcomes bikers for a 50% off deal, drop him a msg if you are headed that way.
A few days before, we opened our garage door to take the ride of a massive 430 meters to Harveys and directly across the street in a garage was 3 adv bikes and the guys from endofallroads.com three guys are riding RTW slowly, month riding and month work, they said they will start a ride report soon
out of Antigua and on to back roads leading to Coban then Flores
It was somewhere along one of these roads we met Robin then soon after I hit this milestone
I posted later that night that photo on an FB DR650 saying all is good, the bike is running great, if anyone reading has higher mileage are there things I should be looking out for? I leave it at that and we head out for a walk around the small island of Flores
I must have tempted fate or was it karma kicking in, the bike wouldn’t start the place where we’d stayed, Explore Lodge, besides being one of the most reasonable and better places we’d stay in GTA had a manager that couldn’t do enough to help. He tried to help in bump start, when that failed helped me push my bike in the lobby where he said I could try and fix it, out of the hot sun and humidity. He then went and got me a cold drink and a fan!!!
I tore into the bike, now here’s something that always surprises me when couples or friends ride RTW, is when they use different bikes. The key to having the same bike is being able to swap and change parts to test anything and everything and resolve problems quickly and easier
The manager ‘ Freddy’ had offered to drive us anywhere we needed to go and if need be arrange a part pick up and delivery from Guatemala City where the cops use the DR650
As I did my thing and went thru the logical order of testing all possible related components and process of elimination, Egle received a message, Klim, that they wanted to talk to her. While I was getting greasy she spoke with them and they offered to clothe Robin and his son Angel as much as they could due to sizes available. So was this the fate/ karma kicking in, if we’re riding we’d never get that message because we’d be out of service range and does it happen later we’ll never know!
The problem turned out to be a bad pulser coil that was actually showing it was good, I had read somewhere before we left this is a problem that is very rare, but seems to happen to a lot of people…haha. The advice was to carry a spare, it’s a tiny part so I had one, around $40 in the US. Once I knew it took 15 minutes to fit and get the bike back in one piece, it fired instantly, so all good there. A local motorcycle shop owner recognized the part but didn’t have one in stock, he took off on his bike and returned ten minutes later with a new one for $3
The following day just before the border we stopped to spend our remaining Quetzals at a small store and as a normal routine, we are approached by a dog, a very hungry dog. We had only bought a snack and it was already gone Egle grabbed something from her pannier, some tuna…not a dogs favorite be he loved it and instantly became a friend. We know that the dog can’t come along but like all street dogs he was a little goofy looking, Egle though a good name was ‘hiccup’ I thought ‘sprocket’…this is him
We spent just over a week in Antigua, we specifically came here this week because of Semana Santa (Holy Week) not because we are religious but for the spectacle of one of the most amazing ceremonies in the world that has to be seen to be believed
Early on in the week, we wandered around town with a few more people than normal, just taking in the sights while the town was preparing for the onslaught
our best view all week of the volcano!
We obviously had a lot of time and interaction with the locals primarily the indigenous and the more we spoke to them the more some of them were open to me taking photos of them, but of course, some of them are ‘sniped photos’
A lot of the people are extremely photogenic and a joy to take photos of, but I do prefer to take shots of people in a more natural state when they are relaxed and just being themselves and not posing
Antigua, Semana Santa….I’ll try and do it piece by piece to make it logical if you’ve never seen it or understand how it works.
The town basically fills way past capacity for a week, certain streets are closed while the Las Alfrombras (the rugs) are made from pine straw, colored sawdust, fruit, vegetables and numerous other things. These, in general, are not stepped on by anyone except this carrying the alters. I’ll get to those later.
For now the Alfrombras, mostly created 24 hours or less before a procession arrives…
Basic stating shape
Sawdust or pine straw base
Then the design starts from the very basic to the outrageous
bags of colored sawdust and templates
to the details, the plastic spoon is the tool of choice a lot
to the finished article
The night settles in and the processions begin, the crowd gathers and wait to smell the pungent incense
Antigua is not the best lit city so night time processions for us are more for viewing than photographing, as I hate shots taken with a flash
We watch them disappear and decide to meet them again in the morning when they’ll still be going!!!!
The next day…there are multiple processions happening every day, over the next few posts I’ll show you a few of them. This year’s processions are listed here to give you an idea of how much is actually happening and how impossible it is to see everything
The kids do the early carrying of the Alters
let’s not forget the Romans and their involvement
Total Alhambra destruction is only a few steps away
Then the second Alter carried by the ladies
and the following band
and whats left…
and waaayyyyyyy at the back is a cleanup crew, so its like it never happened, all that’s left is the slight aroma of insense
The next procession was the Romans and the ‘act’ of looking for Jesus, in this photo to the left side, just to the right of the street sign you see a #29, this is very significant to the people involved in the procession. The lower the number, 1,2,3 etc then you would be closer to the original church or the higher the number, as here #29 farther away. This signifies they have changed the people that carry the alter 28 times and when the person carrying that sign stops that’s where they will change again and if you have #29 you’re up.
The people who are involved pay anything in the range of 30Q to 100Q ($4 – $13.50) to carry the alter, they carry it usually around one city block, the higher price, is if you leave the church carrying the Alter or you pass by a church carrying it.
Antigua has more than 30 Churches, Monasteries, and Convents. There are usually 40 per side for the male carried Alters, 20 per side on the female carried Alters, quite a few of the processions will go for 24 hours. Also, the specific robes are either bought or rented from the church….you do the math
This was also the procession when the daytime red hooded robes appeared
The following day, this year Friday, March 30th was the biggest procession that takes over the whole town, if you’ve ever been to Antigua but not during Semana Santa can you imagine these many people on every single street? The towns regular population is around 45,000, during Seaman Santa over one million people will be here…if you are thinking of coming book your rooms early…very early!
we found a good location and waited for nearly 3 hours for this procession to go by us
This is outside the Cathedral, note the number of people and the guy with the number holder, this is where everybody wants to carry, but only the high paying select few get the honor
even people underneath
Time for the switch, they alternate in and out in a very quick and organized way
Then the ladies carrying Mary (Guadeloupe) – Our Lady of Guadalupe, Spanish Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, also called the Virgin of Guadalupe
This procession goes all day and all night, later the purple robes are changed for the black night robes/ mourning robes, it passes virtually by our front door after the sun has gone down. (These are taken at dusk and in the dark, thru insense, with a high ISO, hence the lack of sharp focus on some)
I need about 30 minutes of your valuable time, if you don’t have it right now I fully understand but come back when you do, this post is that important, it’ll require you read every word and watch every single second of video and then take time to ponder what your brain just absorbed and if you then want to do anything, which is not required…but you might.
Go grab a beer or wine or bottle of water, let’s get started
In 2011 I joined ADVrider since then I’ve made exactly 4196 posts on that amazing forum that @Baldy conceived nearly two decades ago, without doubt, this will be my most pleasurable and proud post to write.
Last Sunday I made a post 23 of you acknowledged with ‘like’ it was here and included this video
The guy in this video is called Robin de Leon and he’s from Guatemala City, Guatemala and this is the rest of his amazing story written by Egle:
A couple of days ago, we were riding from Antigua to Coban (Guatemala). As we were making our way through the back roads, we noticed a peculiar rider: he had one leg missing, and was shifting gears by hand. He also had a small boy on the back of his bike.
We rode alongside him for a while, intrigued; using the Sena intercom, I said to Paul – “He looks like someone who has a fantastic story! Let’s pull him over and talk to him”.
Paul said, sure. So we stopped the one-legged motorcyclist, and we were totally blown away by his story!
When Robin was 17, he was walking home from work; he lives in a poor neighborhood in Guatemala City, and there was a shooting near where he lived. A stray bullet hit him in the leg as he was walking by, and they had to amputate above the knee…
Robin was an avid cyclist, so losing the leg meant losing the freedom to travel. However, his boss convinced him to try a motorcycle and gave him his old 125cc bike. Robin came up with a small steel rod that he attached to the gear lever and shifted gears by hand. “I fell down a lot, at first”, – Robin says. “But I felt that the motorcycle would change my life, so I kept trying”.
As soon as he started to ride, motorcycling became a huge passion of his. A few years back, Robin rode his little Suzuki 125 to Nicaragua and back!
And as if that isn’t cool enough, Robin also races. He’s won a few disabled riders’ races in Guatemala and Honduras and his dream is to one day compete in the Bridgestone Handy Race in Spain.
Robin works as a motorcycle courier in Guatemala City and takes care of Angel (Robin’s a single dad). He doesn’t make much money and whatever income he has goes towards his son’s food and school needs.
The biggest hurdle for Robin to continue racing and riding is proper motorcycle gear: more professional races simply won’t let him enter because he doesn’t have a racing suit. Angel, who is eight years old, loves riding with Robin, but all he has is a tatty Chinese helmet. Proper motorcycle gear just isn’t something that Robin can afford.
So we decided to help Robin: we are going to get people to either donate $$$ or gear and send Robin and Angel some good motorcycle gear. But that’s not all – we talked to Tolga Basol of ‘Ride Must Go On‘, asking him if he would help us create a short film about Robin. We would then use that video to convince companies to help Robin. Tolga said yes, he’ll think about it
So, we’re just putting everything together now, figuring out the best way to get the gear to Robin, and so on. Can you please help share the message, or perhaps one of your advertisers could donate some gear, or…literally ANYTHING would be a big help!
Here is the video, its almost 16 minutes long, PLEASE WATCH IT ALL AND LISTEN TO WHAT WE ARE SAYING as we go into great detail while we ride through Northern Guatemala, so there’s stuff to see as well.
yesterday I posted on Instagram this screenshot
it got a measly 86 likes because it’s not a shot of a bike and because you actually had to do some work to get to the video because I’ve not got the hang of IG yet as you’ll notice in the comments. People wanted a link to click!
Anyhow, someone at Klim saw this and keep this in mind this was yesterday, so this post was not up yet, Klim has already offered to send some gear to Robin and Angel. I have been part of the Klim family since late 2017 and this just makes me proud to be wearing their name when they step up like this.
Also, someone who at the moment is remaining nameless has a friend who makes prosthesis and is going to see if there is an interest in helping (fingers crossed).
Remember these guys, Chihuahua Motorrad…they have offered to collect packages in El Paso, TX and cover all the logistics and shipping and also they are adding a bunch of clothing and gear too.
If you were really listening to the video the one thing that holds Robin back besides the obvious handicap is the lack of a racing suit so he can compete more, if anyone has one laying in the bottom of closet let us know, or if you or your friends, co-workers, friends, associates etc. have a connection in the right place then please share this post.
We are now sharing it everywhere we can and in a hurry, as we leave for Cuba in 13 days, so, logistically for around 2 months we will be out of the mix completely and are so glad others are stepping up to help out.
It will be great for us to see where you guys take this in our absence.
Also mentioned in the video, Robin is setting up a small motorcycle shop, he has some equipment but is looking for a few things, some small, some big, Egle has a list but as we all know you can never have enough tools…but, if you do have too many, this might be a great place to send them.
Numerous individuals have already stepped up and donated money to assist which is great, but the logistics are tough as Guatemala has no government-run mail system in place and so it requires the use of private companies like Rapidito Express to get stuff ‘in country’.
It would be amazing if someone has family in Guatemala City and could help out someway somehow, even if it’s just with translation as Robin only speaks a few words of English.
For those of you who are on Facebook, you can find him – Robin DE Leon Guatemala
This is one of those posts | videos | chance meetings that needs to be shared everywhere to everyone who you know who loves motorcycles and inspirational stories.
If by chance there is someone reading who is or who knows someone high up in a media outlet that would like to hear more, Egle would love to write that article, NY Times, New Yorker, LA Times, USA Today, Oprah, Washington Post, Time, Life, NG, Readers Digest etc…please let me or her know
In 2017, Klim offered me a sponsorship: they invited me up to the Klim HQ in Rigby, Idaho, and I was told: “pick anything you want.” I knew this was going to happen so I had thought it through and done some research, but my choice might surprise you.
First, a little background –
I bought my first Klim jacket in 2011. Prior to that I had no clue what Klim was, they were a relatively new company producing motorcycle gear, although they were ‘the name’ in snowmobiling gear at the time…and still are.
I rode North, Central, and South America with this jacket and then RTW on and off-road, to me it was almost perfect. The downfall was I found it a little long: when riding offroad, there is a lot of standing on the pegs, but each time I sat down I sat on the back/ bottom of the jacket…this is my only gripe. I stayed safe, warm and dry 100% of the time.
Over the next few years I became a fan of Klim, so much so I purchased over 40 different Klim products.
Fast forward to 2016: still out there riding and doing another RTW. I had switched bikes from a thumper to a Yamaha Super Tenere, I knew I would be riding primarily on paved roads so I picked a new jacket to suit the bigger, faster, heavier bike… My choice this time? The Badlands.
The Badlands is the ultimate jacket/ pants combination for long-term overland travel, but I would put it as a maximum of 30% off-road, just for one reason and one reason alone – weight. It is hardcore technical gear, and that just adds weight.
Over the years I have done the TAT three times, numerous BDR’s and other off-road riding and the Latitude and Badlands are just way to heavy and technical for that type of riding. The majority of the time I wear ITB (in the boot) pants and a compression shirt with an MX jersey over the top. I then carry Goretex over pants and a Powerxross jacket with zero armor in them to quickly put over my gear if a rainstorm rolls in, of it gets a little cold.
In 2017, I had received a call from Klim with an offer of sponsorship.
Let me explain that [sponsorship word] a little: I shoot a lot of photos, have a photography degree and post in numerous places all over the internet, and my stuff has been in magazines worldwide.
Just from basic hits on photos (that I can track), I get something in the region of seven million hits/ views on photos a year; this DOES NOT include Instagram, Facebook, other websites, and magazines (and of course plagiarism of photos). So a conservative estimate of photo views per year is around ten million, this is why I was offered sponsorship!
I am standing in Klim HQ and I hear those magical words –
I love my Latitude, I love my Badlands and I love my Powerxross, but I wanted to be able to throw all three in a blender and make my own jacket.
I wanted a jacket that was durable, not too many pockets, great venting, Goretex, waist length, lightweight, kidney belt (like the Badlands) and removable armor for when I wanted to wear a compression suit and hyperextension knee braces with full-on MX boots. What I wanted wasn’t available…until 2017, when Klim did the ‘virtual blender’ deal I was looking for: they produced the Carlsbad.
It is everything I asked for and the best part, 45% cheaper than the Badlands. The pants are great too, well vented and enough room for MX boots and knee braces.
Right now we are riding the Americas (again, fourth time) and it is primarily on the pavement right now, even though we search out dirt where and when we can, we struggle to make it 50/50 riding and the Carlsbad straight out the box is perfect for this type of riding.
After the Americas, we are heading back to Russia, Mongolia, the ‘stans, and the Trans Euro Trail. That looks like it will be around 80%+ off-road. At that point, I can simply take out the armor, send it ahead and wear my full off-road gear, pack the jacket down small and only use it when Mother Nature makes me.
If my seventh year on the road and over 300,000 km around the planet aren’t enough of a strong recommendation for you, maybe my buddy Lydon Poskitt might add some weight to the argument.
Before we left Taxco a European Auto magazine asked Egle if she would write an article about the VW Beetle as its so prominent in Taxco, she agreed. We threw this out to @Taxco Guru to see if he could hook us up with a few cab drivers…he went one better.
We had no awareness that there was a car club in Taxco, and of course, it’s a Beetle Club, or as they call the Beetle, el Vocho…due to pronunciation issues.
So as we are are all gearheads/petrol heads I thought I’d share a few of the shots I took for the mag. It as nice to see another unique side of Mexico that most don’t get to see and the guys were so great and friendly
when was the last time you saw a Beetle with Lambo doors? Ever??
The guys run manual lowering links and carry floor jacks so they can do this when they park the cars for show, they dropped a few of the cars to show us how extreme they can lower them
For those of you who haven’t been to Taxco and seen the amazingly steep streets, the reason why the Beetle is so good for this environment is two-fold, rear wheel/ rear engine drive for good rear end grip due to weight placement and the width is perfect for two cars to pass each other on the very narrow streets that were originally designed for donkey/ horse/ ox and carts to travel along
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) and what the major expense was for in the first place, hopefully, they change it for future travelers as Cuba needs as much time as possible.![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-KjKPN9F/0/e75f1383/X2/i-KjKPN9F-X2.jpg)
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![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-hQtzRZn/0/0f31d010/XL/cuba%202018-60-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-bvDfRfc/0/b118ea5d/X3/rtwpaul%20-%20egle%20cuba%202018-54-X3.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-NTL232h/0/aacda6b2/X3/rtwpaul%20-%20egle%20cuba%202018-55-X3.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-MDTcz9W/0/ebc11d9e/X3/cuba%202018-66-X3.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-gnFzXcV/0/db2b9997/XL/cuba%202018-61-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-cNB4GcS/0/d6588c9d/XL/L%20Cuba%202018-13-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-HWRzmbJ/0/e69afd89/XL/rtwpaul%20-%20egle%20cuba%202018-60-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-WvpWs35/0/91e37956/XL/cuba%202018-71-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-zpJP4KP/0/2108277a/X2/rtwpaul%20-%20egle%20cuba%202018-61-X2.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-bxHMKbd/0/f9fc38b9/XL/cuba%202018-167-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-tQ43jTk/0/604b7651/XL/cuba%202018-30-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-BQrC4XR/0/047aff69/X2/DSCF0311-X2.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-xQGD48C/0/ce7b9b71/X2/Screen%20Shot%202018-06-14%20at%203.03.35%20PM-X2.png)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-8t6KZkF/0/f55b1c8c/XL/cuba%202018-78-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-6h63Q8q/0/fee71beb/XL/cuba%202018-80-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-DXWxprn/0/be5a2f38/X2/to%20trinidad%201-154-X2.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-rRw95MW/0/0eb614ed/XL/cuba%202018-161-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Havana-to-Varadero-and-Trinidad/i-mb79Lmn/0/57f30fdb/XL/cuba%202018-178-XL.jpg)
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![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Trinidad/i-NwtmRrm/0/a14997d0/XL/cuba%202018-182-XL.jpg)
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![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Trinidad/i-bQbgnnP/0/3c867e4f/XL/cuba%202018-202-XL.jpg)
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![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Trinidad/i-7jNJBCN/0/bb8fa828/XL/cuba%202018-210-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Trinidad/i-mDFQJ7r/0/f2f734ef/XL/cuba%202018-211-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Trinidad/i-hwR6VD6/0/c2573859/X3/cuba%202018-212-X3.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Trinidad/i-dw8DW6n/0/33ed8625/X3/cuba%202018-214-X3.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Trinidad/i-mJXLcwz/0/9a39be1f/X3/cuba%202018-194-X3.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Trinidad/i-f9ghKc6/0/a258f3da/XL/cuba%202018-188-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Trinidad/i-z6sJHpC/0/c0ae6302/X3/cuba%202018-224-X3.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Trinidad/i-xL2TBSX/0/061be0af/XL/cuba%202018-225-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Trinidad/i-wpp9SWf/0/13e69360/XL/cuba%202018-226-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Camaguey/i-WShWz2S/0/6ec75653/XL/cuba%202018-108-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Camaguey/i-zDj4D5c/0/05df4d56/XL/cuba%202018-110-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Camaguey/i-dC7CsR8/0/f2b9add1/XL/cuba%202018-103-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Camaguey/i-qLbPC8G/0/1fff794a/XL/cuba%202018-102-XL.jpg)
but we decide to ride to Camaguey to a guy I know where I can do the work in his hotel.![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Camaguey/i-b23rfGX/0/f8f1fddd/XL/cuba%202018-101-XL.jpg)
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![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Guardalavaca/i-KK9ZbVR/0/40226b10/XL/guardalavaca%20cuba%202018-243-XL.jpg)
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![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Baracoa/i-qQz3JMv/0/ed0b9f4d/XL/rtwpaul%20-%20egle%20cuba%202018-75-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Baracoa/i-fDMqbp3/0/3a691625/XL/L%20Cuba%202018-20-XL.jpg)
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![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-tortoguilla/i-rMQQ6wp/0/d761e728/XL/L%20Cuba%202018-24-XL.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-tortoguilla/i-SbdssNg/0/c3ccc82b/X3/cuba%202018-1-X3.jpg)
![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Isla-mujueres-to-Havana/i-Hp4T7WX/0/b450150e/X2/day%201%20-3%20w-logo%20Cuba%202018-1-X2.jpg)
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![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-april-stahlratte/i-cHJ5XCC/0/a37dbe6e/XL/mexico%202018-2-XL.jpg)
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the place where we’d stayed, Explore Lodge, besides being one of the most reasonable and better places we’d stay in GTA had a manager that couldn’t do enough to help. He tried to help in bump start, when that failed helped me push my bike in the lobby where he said I could try and fix it, out of the hot sun and humidity. He then went and got me a cold drink and a fan!!!![[IMG]](https://photos.smugmug.com/RTW-on-dirt-2018/2018-Apr-1-to-7-Antigua-to-Playa/i-xZ6s4hs/0/ba8af3ae/XL/KIMG0262-2-XL.jpg)
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rtwPaul 
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